Been reading the forums for a while. Sometimes my wife asks what i'm laughing at so hard and i tell her that it's all this learning that i'm doing just tickles me down deep. So thanks guys for all the great info and the very entertaining way that most of you deliver the messages!
Among other things, we have a 1959 Chevy Apache with a 235 cu in engine. It has developed a leak in the manifold gasket (s). Before i go digging into that, i was wondering if anyone knew where i could get a NOS intake and exhaust manifold. any suggestions other than Ebay would be very helpful.
thanks again for the great knowledge and wonderful delivery. This sight is a blessing to us because of all of you who contribute.
If you separate the manifolds, tighten them to the head individually before tightening them together. Good place to use brass nuts.
You could post a want add in the Truck Parts section of this forum for the manifolds.
I have a 3835587 exhaust manifold for 20.00. The best gaskets to use are Remflex. Have them on both my 1954 235 engines..Bill
Selling parts in the garage forums are a nono. Post in the Swap Meet or send PM directly to OP when he gets enough posts.
Oldtruckspapa--send me your email and I will send pictures--Could not send you a PM--Bill
Leaking exhaust gaskets are not all that uncommon on these motors. So before you pull the trigger on NOS, and start taking apart the assembly ,check the condition of what you have. If the manifold is not cracked, and the flapper is not frozen, remove the assembly and as suggested above, use a Rimflex gasket. A littler more in the way of cost then a stock type gasket but its a one piece gasket and seals like you cant believe. Way way better then stock.
Why do you think you need a new intake & exhaust manifold ?
Finding a GM NOS intake & exhaust manifold will be next to impossible to find .
I purchased a nos intake manifold back in 2008 .
I've only seen one other nos intake manifold that showed up on ebay in 2009 .
After keeping my eye out for a NOS exhaust manifold since 2007 .
One turned up on ebay last year . It's a super rare part in nos condition .
Both GM NOS manifold's had to carefully media blasted to clean off
light oxidation & light surface rust .
This is what I used in my blast cabinet .
Sorry it's taken so long to get back to yall. Let me first thank those of you who responded. George, thanks for the info on Corn cob media! and Dragsix, thanks for the Remflex suggestion. Bill i'm still trying to figure out how to get you my email address.
so, removed the manifolds and found neither was cracked or damaged so don't think i need the NOS that is impossible to find anyhow. However, the heat direction plate is frozen partially open. anyone know how to get it unfrozen? doesn't look like someone did it on purpose as was suggested in another post on this sight.
If i read and understood correctly, some have indicated that that condition would be ok and should operate satisfactorily. however, i'm going to exhaust all possibilities to try and find a manifold that has an operating heat flapper.
thanks again for all the great input!!
Thanks for the update and shout out but I would like to note that 49 3100 noted the rimflex gasket first. So you had two positive recommendations on the gasket!
Gentle heating, tapping shaft endwise, oil while cooling would be a start.
I will be replacing my head soon and sounds like I should use the Rimflex gasket. Does anyone have the part number? (I apologize ahead of time if it is in the tech tips).
I got my last Remflex for the 235 at Summit for a good price. That gasket was the cure for an old Clifford intake I had that didn't fit for spit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-2027/overview/
ED--I would add the use of PB blaster to aid in getting the flapper unstuck..Bill
JiMerit - thank you (belated) for the link to the Rimflex gasket.
Frozen up heat riser valves are a common problem, and they're usually pretty simple to fix. Heat from a Propane or Acetyline torch ,penetrating oil, tapping the shaft side to side with a hammer, and lots of patience will usually free up the shaft. Soak, heat, tap, repeat- - - - - - -over and over. Once it breaks free be sure the flap can move through its full travel, install a new thermal spring, and press on. The thermal spring on Ebay advertised for a Jeep is less than half price of the outrageously expensive OEM style ones the resto-ripoff places sell.