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First round of holidays is about over. A few weeks before the next ones. For some of us...

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Time to think about wintering your Bolt.

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#984553 Fri Nov 08 2013 04:49 PM
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 6
stiffy Offline OP
New Guy
i was on here a while back inquiring about an engine for a '37 chevy fire truck. i found a good engine, although much newer than the '37. it has an oil pump rather than the spash oiler. it has been installed, with some minor modifications, such as the motor mounts, and the installation of an electric fan due to the extra length of the motor, which didn't allow enough clearance. I'll add some pictures when I finally get it all done. i would like to know what type of addatives to use with the unleaded/ethanol gas. also, since the vehicle won't be driven for the winter, what kind of stabilizer i need. thanks from a rank amature.

stiffy #984557 Fri Nov 08 2013 04:58 PM
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 882
Shop Shark
Just drain the gas. Just dumping stabilizer in the tank will not treat the fuel in the lines or carb.. it can still gum up. Drain it into a gas can and use it for your lawn mowers/chainsaws etc.

I run my 1942 Ford GPW with no additives and 10% ethanol (regular pump gas) with no issues. It's an L head and still has the original cast iron valve seats.

The general consensus is that the motors are not driven hard enough/enough miles to justify hardened seats OR additives.

stiffy #984605 Fri Nov 08 2013 08:29 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,736
Shop Shark
I don't know what kind of unleaded is sold in NY but most of us are buying E10 or 10% ethonol and it goes to pot in short order in my experience. I try to not let anything set for over a month w/o running it until good and hot and over the winter I use Sta-Bil and find it works well. No need to worry about your 2 cycle gas if it's stored with the oil mixed. As for the gas cans (I must have 10) I try to empty them in cars I drive by Nov and use Sta-Bil in the ones I must carry over. BTW, this morning our gas price was 2.78.9 for 87 octane. Think I may have to fill all those cans again.

1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
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If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain
stiffy #984656 Sat Nov 09 2013 12:10 AM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,667
Stabil works fine for me, too. Just draining the tank, doesn't remove stale fuel from lines and carb, can also get 5 or 10 gallons of aircraft fuel(100LL or Mogas) that has no alky, fill up with that and run for a short while before putting away for winter.

'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
stiffy #984847 Sat Nov 09 2013 05:30 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,064
I've read a few articles recently about winterizing. They actually suggest keeping your tank about 75-90% full. The reason being, It keeps condensation from entering your tank.

I've heard the age old myth that ethanol draws moisture. The fact is that moisture BONDS to ethanol molecules. So, the less moisture and condensation that is allowed in the tank, the less chance there is of phase seperation, and moisture related problems.

Another benefit is that there is rust and oxidation inhibitors in fuel. An old 'bolt has a steel fuel tank. So what happens to bare steel? It rusts. An empty tank left open to condesation is just an invitation to rust.

BTW- The main ingredient in Stabil IS Alchohol.

Last edited by Whitedog; Sat Nov 09 2013 08:02 PM.

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