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Re: Yet another turnsignal question
daveboy #1041123 Wed Jul 09 2014 04:27 AM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 127
Shop Shark
The best thing I ever did was put a new wiring harness in my 54. It took out all the guess work if a wire is broken or if someone else wired it wrong . I got it from classic parts of america. It was labeled very well and was pretty simple. That might not be a option for you right now but it will save some heartache in the long run. Just my 2 cents

Re: Yet another turnsignal question
Hot Rod John #1042810 Tue Jul 15 2014 10:56 PM
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 49
Wrench Fetcher
My problem is under acceleration the engine cuts in and out when the blinker blinks. Could an electronic blinker cause this?

As I grow old I find I'm glad I lived in a time when "common sense" was... common.
Re: Yet another turnsignal question
daveboy #1042813 Tue Jul 15 2014 11:31 PM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,729
Shop Shark
Only if the ignition is tied to it

Steve H
Re: Yet another turnsignal question
daveboy #1042814 Tue Jul 15 2014 11:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,860
Extreme Gabster
Willy, where are you getting power for the flasher? I think the only way it could affect the engine is if it's hooked to the ignition circuit instead of an accessory power point


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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Re: Yet another turnsignal question
daveboy #1044960 Sat Jul 26 2014 04:58 AM
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,189
Shop Shark
I Agree with "Red". another possibility would be the flasher and the coil sharing a "bad" ground connection. I had that happen on a "Nopower",(Mopar) 1-ton.

Just sold: 1955 2nd Series 6500 2-Ton Flatbed Truck
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Re: Yet another turnsignal question
daveboy #1044999 Sat Jul 26 2014 12:54 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,290
Shop Shark
I just installed a turn signal switch yesterday,so I will share with you my expierience.
My switch came from one of the vendors,( I don't remember witch one ,it was purchased 12 yrs ago). It had 7 wires Plus a fused power for the 3 terminal blinker can.
The instructions were rather vague,(that's why it sat for 12yrs). After staring at the instructions and straching my head for a while I determined that the best course of action was to just use my common sense and do it my way.
Look at your wires and seperate the front two from the rear to, then you will be left with 3 wires that connect to the blinker can and one power wire. Let us deal with the four wires that go to the lights first.
Determine what color wires go where,(ex. yellow/right front, brown/ left front, green/right rear, orange/left rear)Your colors ma vary. Go to NAPA and get a roll of wire the same color as the leads on the switch, some male and female conectors.
Now lets have some fun.Run one wire of each color lead to each light (ex. Y/rght frt,Brwn /lft frt,and so on)when you have finished that, you have wired your turn/brake lights.Caution here, you must have dual terminal light sockets that use a 1157 light bulb,(but you already know that right).The wires get connected to the brighter side of the bulb.
Next connect the blinker can look at the intructions to determine the color for the connections.

Next will be what was confusing to me, the connection to the brake light switch, my instructions kept saying to cut and tape connections that were not there. So I used my common sense here Get your test light and look at your brake switch, it will have 2 wires ,one will be power you do not want that one. Cut the other one and connect that to the wire going to the blinker unit, this will supply power to the unit for the brake lights. Now go to the rear of you truck and find the same wire and cut it/ discounnect it. Now you should have a working system.
I have mine connected to battery power, so I have emergency flashers without the key being on.

It's not hard you just have to think a little, hpoe this helps.

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