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Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
spitfire18 #856888 Wed Jun 06 2012 01:08 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,595
B
Shop Shark
I think either way you choose to go is going to call for a welder.
You can do as George said 55-62 3rd member,chunk,pumpkin everyone call it a different name and install in your original rear end housing. 3rd member
This will be a good time to install new bearings if it needs them(axle,differential).You will use your original axles that you have.You will need to set the pinion angle and weld up the pivot points on the rear end solid. pivot points
Try to get all of the rubber bushing out of the pivot area,it will catch fire and melt and drip all over.

I put a 58 pumpkin in my 1951 suburban rear end with a 3:90 gear set,coupled to a t5 transmission.
Here is a link to some pictures I took of my conversion. conversion pictures
I extended the splines,shortened the collar and pilot shaft area.I also used a 1/2" drill bit to open up the transmission mounting bolt holes. t5 conversion



Tim


"A house is built with boards and beams,a home is built with love and dreams"

Look deep before you leep !!!

"Everything is Everything"

"If I say a mouse can pull a house,Hitch him up"

My 1951 3100 Chevrolet
My 1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall

Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
bowtietim #857026 Wed Jun 06 2012 04:21 PM
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 43
S
Wrench Fetcher
Thanks for the information. that is exactly what I was looking for. I have access to a welder just not in my garage.

Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
spitfire18 #862574 Thu Jun 28 2012 12:43 AM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 430
H
Shop Shark
get a late model chevy colorado 4wd truck rear, they are 6 lug and have disc brakes too

Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
hoozat #862582 Thu Jun 28 2012 01:03 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,490
L
Master Gabster
Originally Posted by hoozat
get a late model chevy colorado 4wd truck rear, they are 6 lug and have disc brakes too

The Colorado has drum brakes on the rear.


Bill Burmeister
Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
LONGBOX55 #877848 Sun Aug 26 2012 03:25 PM
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 43
S
Wrench Fetcher
The colorado idea is something to think about.

I have an additional question. I now have a 58 235 that is ready for paint and I have the T5 ready to go.

I was wondering if I can use my 58 pressure plate?

Here is my plan as of today. If I can use the 58 pressure plate, the 58 throw out bearing and a 9.5" to 11" clutch disc. That along with the original manual clutch fork and bell housing.

Is this going to work or am I missing something.

I am really tempted to do a complete indepth write up on this process because there is a bunch out there, but I cannot seem to find it very easily and the better write ups out there have left out a bunch of info that might be helpful.

I know you can pull this conversion off several different ways, but not one write up that I have found is a one stop answer.

Anyways, any help would sure help me out.

Thanks

Re: T5 spacer plate fabrication/rear end?
spitfire18 #879330 Fri Aug 31 2012 05:27 PM
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32
D
New Guy
I used the spacer from Dave at Vintage Metal Works http://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.com/p/t-5-to-235261-adapter-plate.html and clutch from Richie at Brake and Clutch Supply http://clutch-shop.com/the T5 has different clutch splines. Dave will give you all the info you need if you have questions.

Larry

Re: T5 spacer plate fabrication/rear end?
deere36 #1353069 Fri Apr 03 2020 12:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 4
M
New Guy
Deer36 this is exactily what I'm wanting to do with my 1946 1/2 ton.

Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
spitfire18 #1353094 Fri Apr 03 2020 01:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20,351
H
Boltergeist
If you're going to make a spacer, you'll need a lathe, not a milling machine. The diameter and concentricity of the center hole is important. Start with a big hole saw with the proper thickness of spacer material mounted on a face plate, and finish the hole accurately with a boring tool.The rest of the shape of the plate can be done with a scribe and a bandsaw once the plate fits the bearing retainer properly. Get the center hole right, clamp it to the transmission, and use a transfer punch to locate the bolt holes. Then scribe a line around the transmission ears and cut the plate to fit with a bandsaw. Simple and easy!

Don't waste time trying to change the center section of the rear axle. If you do that, you'll need to lock the pivoting spring mounts some way, and welding cast parts with rubber bushings inside them is a pain in the rear end (yours, not the truck!), and rarely works for very long. Swap the whole housing since you've got it already.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
spitfire18 #1353153 Fri Apr 03 2020 07:50 PM
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 674
T
Shop Shark
I used a spacer plate from Hamilton Intakes when I put the T5 behind my 216. I used an Astro Van pressure plate with my stock clutch, throw out bearing, etc. It's a simple job.

A stock Astro Van drive shaft with an S10 yoke is the perfect length if you want to move your rear end back to center the tire in the fender opening.

I used a 3.90 center section from a '61 half ton in my stock axle housing. This allowed me to use my stock parking brake cables.

With this set up my original speedometer reads accurate with 28" diameter tires.

I even cut a shifter from an original '51 Chevy four speed and welded it to my T5 shifter.

This has been a dependable and trouble free set up on a daily driver that sees heavy use year round.

Re: T5 adapter plate fabrication/rear end?
spitfire18 #1353246 Sat Apr 04 2020 04:00 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 9,223
5
Master Gabster
I used the spacer plate from Carl's Scrap Pile. I cut the big hole and the outer dimension with a cutting torch and cleaned it up with an air angle grinder.
Works good, last long time, Joe.
I cut 3/8" off the input stub, but had an issue with the clutch disc not moving far enough along the splines on the input shaft, and I did not want to grind the splines to "fix" in wrong.

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