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Steering Gear Ball Returns
#791423 Sun Oct 23 2011 05:03 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 705
B
Curmudgeon
I believe the master parts list show these in section 6.842 as a "guide" and are part number 267542. I think they are also called a bearing track. I'm trying to repair my 54 3100 steering gear box. Anyone know where I can find these?

Re: Steering Gear Ball Returns
buoymaker #791478 Sun Oct 23 2011 02:41 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,343
Bubba

Most likely your best bet is to place a Want Ad in the Swap Meet. Hope that someone took a unit apart for other parts and kept the spare parts.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Re: Steering Gear Ball Returns
buoymaker #793159 Fri Oct 28 2011 10:14 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 705
B
Curmudgeon
tclederman thanks for your response. I just received some NOS. I did a search and found a company called Olds Obsolete (Stevensville, Montana) on the Internet. I put in an order and it was delivered quickly. I believe the steering box was damaged when my truck was winched up on a RollBack. The tires were flat and rotten at the time.

Re: Steering Gear Ball Returns
buoymaker #793325 Sat Oct 29 2011 01:49 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,343
Bubba
bouymaker,

What a good website. Thanks for the information. Here is a link to that company:

http://174.120.2.37/about-us

Besides having a nice list of NOS parts, they also list muffler bearings.

Let us know how your steering box rebuild turns out. Did you get new ball-bearings? I will be doing my first steering-box rebuild over the winter.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Re: Steering Gear Ball Returns
tclederman #793336 Sat Oct 29 2011 02:52 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,766
D
'Bolter
Prices....choke, gag, take a breath, eyes bulge!!!!!
They are a bit pricy on everything that I looked at. $75 for a speedo cable, $45 for a hood
lock bolt, $95 horn relay, plastic insulator for the horn wire $30, $125 mast jacket
Bearing and on and on.
Way out of my league.
DG

Re: Steering Gear Ball Returns
Denny Graham #793339 Sat Oct 29 2011 03:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,343
Bubba

Well, Denny, it seems that some people are even more particular than you are. They want OEM (NOS or NORS) parts and are willing to pay for it.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Re: Steering Gear Ball Returns
tclederman #793345 Sat Oct 29 2011 03:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,448
C
'Bolter
Great site! $45.00 for an NOS torque tube bushing seems reasonable which IMO is far superior to an okie bushing.


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod

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You Tube

Re: Steering Gear Ball Returns
Curt B. #796498 Wed Nov 09 2011 08:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 705
B
Curmudgeon
I decided to post more detail so the forum can correct me on things I did wrong. It will help me to learn. After cleaning (too much dried hard grease) and inspection I found my worm shaft looked okay except the very end was rough on the edge. A bit of crocus cloth smoothed it out some. Fortunately it was not in the area where the worm bearing runs. The other end of the worm looked good. The bearing race on the steering mast looked good. The race on the adjustment nut looked good. I figure I dodged two bullets here. Two of the bearings fell out of the upper worm bearing retainer. The lower worm bearing retainer was bent and bearings floating free. The worm nut looked great inside. I had a few bearing balls that needed replacement (black spots). The bearing guide had dimples where the balls had jammed in the past. I got NOS bearing guides (4X at $5 each plus shipping) at oldsobsolete. I ordered the steering box repair kit from Classic Truck Parts (with Stovebolt discount at $58 plus shipping) and only installed the gaskets and bearings. The original bushing, at the pitman arm side, was in good shape. I decided to not replace the seal (packing) for fear of damaging the bushing. The bushing at the adjuster plate needs replacing but I don't presently have a way to remove the old bushing. I figure it will take a lathe. I'm still looking for information on what others have done in this situation. If anyone knows, I would appreciate some advice. Since it's a plate that I can remove, I figured I can do this later if needed. Unfortunately the new bushing provided will need to be cut down to fit. It's too long. Both new bushings are the same dimension and I'm wondering if Classic made a mistake. I decided to continue assembly. I followed the shop manual steps. Getting the bearing balls into the worm and worm nut wasn't too bad but filling up the bearing guides without them falling out was a laugh with my stubby fingers. It took grease and patience but finally I got the guides to set in the worm nut properly without force. I'm now filling up the box with corn head grease (slow process) while turning the steering box to make it settle down some. I almost have one tube (14 ounces) inside now and don't know how much it will take to fill the box. Does anyone know? The shop manual says to fill to the plug hole but this was easy to pour gearbox oil and I'm curious on the amount required. I count 6 1/4 turns of the steering wheel (stop-to-stop) and the movement feels uniform and quiet. Before the repair it sounded like popping and crunching. I've done adjustment by feel but need to buy a tension gauge (spring scale) to better adjust the worm bearings and gear mesh to the spec in the shop manual. I forgot to mention that I could see wear in the gear teeth but it seems there is just enough adjustment (flush with the locknut) for meshing. I figure the steering box wear was due to old and poor lubrication. My initial goal was to get the truck where I can steer it around in the driveway and I think it's good for that now. In my local area, a used steering box will cost $125 (I remove) but there is no guarantee on the condition of the worm shaft and worm nut. I've seen rebuilt steering boxes go for over $250 if they receive a rebuildable core. Then there's shipping of the core and shipping of the rebuild. I figured it was worth a shot to attempt a repair myself (a rookie).


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