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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 194
S
Shop Shark


I put in a new gas tank, sender, metal lines and rubber connection to fuel pump and new metal line from fuel pump to old style glass fuel filter.

I tried priming the carb with some gas and some starting spray. It turns over and pops and runs till the gas or spay is used up, about a couple revolutions of so.

I have tried this with the carb on FULL CHOKE to try to suck some up. Probably tried 15 or 20 times now. still nothing in the bowl.

Have it back on the charger now.

But so far I am getting nothing in the glass bowl of the fuel filter.

I have only put in about 2 gallons of gas as I was afraid if I had a leak it might run all over the garage.

Questions:
1) how much gas do you normally need in a tank were it will pick it up? I think my pickup line is at the very bottom at least it seemed that way when I installed it.

2) Is there some other way to prime the lines to get it to suck the gas up?

The truck was running ok 18 months ago before I rewired all and repainted interior and engine bay.

So I think the fuel pump is still OK. I did not do anything with it except reconnect it to the rubber and hard line.

But the gas lines were all dry when I started cranking. Not sure if there is any gas in the lines yet or not.

Can the fuel pump provide enough suction to suck the gas all the way up or is some other priming necessary?

I was hoping not to take the lines off and try to see if it is getting gas along the way. But can do that if I need to.


I am just wondering if I am missing something obvious?


Normally, before all the repairs over the last 18 months, when I let it sit the carb goes dry and I have to crank it a bit to get gas sucked up but this is way beyond that.

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,904
S
Master Gabster
1 - pump should pull fuel until the tank is virtually dry, 2 or more gallons should definitely be enough to work, if you have the original style sender/intake

yes the pump can pull fuel from a newly installed tank via previously dry lines

2 disconnect the line from the pump to the carb, aim it in a can and crank awhile, you should get flow, it does take awhile even when the running truck has run out of fuel and you dump a gas can worth into it .... alternatively, disconnect the pump inlet and using a rubber line, put it in a can of gas, it should suck that up fast and fill the carb and prove if the pump is OK

if by some chance there's an 'air lock' between the tank and pump, filling the carb bowl should keep it running long enough to get things flowing

Bill




Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 194
S
Shop Shark
OK thanks for verifying my thoughts and giving me a couple things to try next time!

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,465
J
'Bolter
I just finished repairing a 1972 Plymouth Satellite. I put in a new tank, fuel lines and sender, fuel pump and filter, and new line from pump to fresh rebuilt carburetor. It took only a few spins of the engine, less then 20 seconds to fill the carb. That was with 8 gallons of fuel in the tank through about 14 feet of 5/16" fuel line!

Your pump should have no problem priming the system. If the pump has set dry for a while with modern fuel in it, chances are it has dried the rubber out so bad its now no good. Might be time for a rebuild on the pump.

Joe

Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,658
D
Shop Shark
you could take the fuel line off where is goes into the fuel pump, then take an air hose and wrap a rag around it and put it in the fill hole for the tank. Put some air into the tank, you should get gas coming out at the fuel pump end of the line. Just be cautious and don't put to much air in and have a pan under the line to catch the fuel.

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 283
E
Shop Shark
It sounds to me like you have an air leak in the line between pump and pickup tube.
If you can apply SLIGHT air pressure in the tank filler you can deliver fuel to the open line at the pump and it could show the small leak if one exists.
I said slight pressure because the tank is not built to withstand pressure and would deform or explode probably with 5 pounds positive pressure.
I have used an air hose wrapped with a rag for adapter as the rag wrapper will not allow much pressure buildup.
Also could use a hand vacuum pump at the fuel pump inlet to draw fuel to there.
You have an air leak-maybe at the pump diaphragm or valves maybe in the line/pickup.Suspect that pump defective also.

Last edited by enginenut; Tue Sep 06 2011 01:18 PM.

Bob Taylor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,575
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Take the fuel line off the carburetor inlet and put it into a container like a motor oil bottle. Then loosen the bolts that hold the fuel pump to the engine a couple of turns, and work the pump housing up and down by hand until gas flows out of the line at the carb. It's easier on the starter than grinding it over for long enough to get the fuel to flow. If it doesn't flow gas in 15 or 20 cycles of the pump, you've got an air leak on the input side or a bad pump.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 194
S
Shop Shark
Well I took the input line going to the fuel pump off and stuck my handy dandy fuel siphon on it and did two sucks and heard gas in the tank gurgle and whoosh came the gas. Then I had to actually try to stop it and blow it back into the tank some! Good thing the siphon was long enough to hold vertical and stop it from dumping 3 gallons on the floor.

Then I stuck it back on the pump and turned it over a few times and it sucked it back out of the tank into the glass fuel bowl on the filter by the carb.

That is when I noticed I have leaks!

So I have leaks on both sides of the connections of the fuel filter which I plan on fixing with some permatex HI-Temp thread sealant which is made for fuel lines.

But the other leak was a bigger issue. My old fuel pump was leaking/weeping out all around the crimp on the pump. I guess the bladder must have dried up or deteriorated sitting there not being used. Well come to think of it there was a ton of dirt and greasy stuff caked up all around it when I cleaned it off a while back. I guess it has been leaking for some time.

I had replaced it 23 years ago. Guess it is time for a new one as it is not rebuild-able. And that probably explains why it did not want to suck hard enough to get the prime on it's own.

I looked online and at the local parts stores. No one had one to fit my existing fuel line locations. Mine has the input coming from the rear(not a big issue as it is hose and could relocate) but the front output line goes off at 135% angle away from the engine. Most are at a 45% into the engine.

On ebay I found a NOS never used AC fuel pump that is identical to mine so I paid for that. Hoping it does not leak as well! If it does I guess I will buy a newer replacement style fuel pump and make some new lines to run to it.

But some day soon I should have it running again!

Then I will be hoping my head bolt sealant fixed the weeping antifreeze issue!

And hope that my PCV valve fix works to keep it from having so much blow-by coming out all over the engine and firewall.

Then I can start debugging any new wire harness or possible new generator issues or my old over heating issue......

Hey, but it is all fun. ;-)


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 194
S
Shop Shark
Well I finally got some time an installed my NOS fuel pump.

Went and added some thread sealant to some of the fuel line connections on the carb and glass bulb style fuel filter and hard lines and let it all set 4 or more days before adding fuel back in.

It sucked up the fuel in a jiffy and started right up and idled nicely. Even ran nice when hitting the throttle.

I drove it out of the garage into the driveway. First time it has moved in 18 months! I let it burn some of the new engine paint off.


I had been rewiring everything, new harness and all and repainting interior and engine bay. Also had been working on implementing a PCV valve in the rear of a valve cover and trying to fix some coolant weeping under the valve covers and reinstalled the intake manifold and installed a new water pump and new plug wires, and a new rebuilt generator and lower pulley, new gas tank, etc etc.

Bunch of other stuff like a restored seat and pads and cover and firewall cover and steering column to be the correct short 57 type and new turn signal controls on the column (NOS) and electric wipers (NOS kinda used) and a refurb'ed radio, new heater switch and cables and vents restored and all paint stripped inside and new seat belts and new cab mounts. Refurbed guages and a new speedo. The list goes on and on.

Still looks like crap on the outside but feels and looks new when you are in it or looking under the hood.


I have some new tires i need to get on it before doing much of a test drive. The old tires are not trust worthy. Might end up with 4 flats...


But the great news was that it all started and runs smooth after all that work and all the wires being replaced!

Only thing not working is the new refurbished radio. It makes volume sound but is not receiving any channels. I will need to re-check the new antennae and try my old antennae or my old radio with the new antennae. My old radio was needing a rebuild and I opted for buying another one that was already restored. But I did not try it till a year later and does not work! It may just be a loose tube or something from shipping. I can try some tube swaps in the old radio.

The only other issue is the right front turn signal needs a better ground. Not a lot of metal around it as the body right there is rusting out. I have a wire going from its screw on the back to the head light right not to get a ground.

I had found a coolant leak on the plug on the top of the new water pump a few weeks ago and had to seal that as well.

But it is all running again. That is nice. Hope the coolant leak under the valve covers is fixed. I have not run it enough to bother looking. Hoping the thread sealant on the head bolts is holding and fixed the issue. Assuming that was the issue.



Last edited by svwilbur; Tue Sep 27 2011 03:13 AM.

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