Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop I have a real head-scratcher of a clutch problem,

I have a ’64 Chevy Short Bed Fleetside truck running a ’94 Z28 T-56. I’ve come to you guys looking for help because this is such a sweet tranny, I can't believe I'm the first one to try this swap, and I’m at my wit’s end!

The truck has all the stock clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, TO bearing, and slave that is correct for the Z. In order to fit up cleanly to the firewall and easily attach to the clutch pedal linkage, I’m using a stock ’64 Chevy manual brake master for a clutch master. I believe this MC has a 1” bore, and the slave has a ¾” bore. But I’ve got several issues. There is about 6” of pedal travel in total from the top of the travel to the floor. When I depress the clutch, for the first 3-1/2” or 4”, it feels like it isn’t even hooked up, like it is just return spring pressure. Then it comes up firm, like it is building pressure, and in only about ½”-3/4”, I can finally shift it into gear. I continue to slowly depress the clutch, and in another ½”, I get the most God-awful racket… it sounds like the forks are into the pressure plate – and I still have an inch of pedal left!

So my questions – what do I need to do to get a decent pedal? I’d like 1-1/2” or so of free play at the top, and full disengagement 2-3” below that, if possible. This would give me about 2-3” of functional working stroke. Is this attainable with a hydraulic clutch? And what is causing the horrendous racket? Is the master over-extending the slave somehow? How do I troubleshoot this thing?

I sure need some advice here, guys – I’m about to pull my hair out! Thanks! Bill

did you bleed the air out
ron

There doesn't seem to be any air in it, Ron, but there is no bleedewr valve n the slave s I can't confirm it. I'm going to go get one of those Mi-T-Vac contraptions and try it - see if I can suck a bubble or two out. I'll let you know... Thanks for the reply.

Bill

Watch the slave cyl. rod as you push in the pedal to see where it starts to move. If it starts moveing as soon as you move the pedal then the rod length off the slave cyl. needs adj. or modifiing. If it doesn't move then you have air in the system. Find out what size the MC was on the Camero. There may be too much difference in sizes causeing too much motion in the clutch fork.

The hydraulic clutch I drive most often doesn't feel any different than the mechanical linkage type.

I agree with Wrenchbender, you may need to change the master cylinder to match what was in the Camaro.

If the slave cyl. is like the ones in the trucks in that era, the bleeder is an allen scrwe on top of the cyl. near the closed end.

you might be pushing the pressure plate fingers into the disc's springs because there's too much travel. Check it with a helper,
Scott

I just have to say that your not the first to do this swap. My brother has the same tranny in his 66' C10. I can talk to him about your problem and see what he did.

I have a clutch ? / problem i recently bought a 49 suburban stock 6cly 3 on the tree just got it running today when to put it in gear to see if it would move and NODDA felt like the trans or atleast the linkage was going in and out of every gear but it wont move attempt to move make any different noises even in gear clutch pedal out reving it up no movment or noise?? any advice im new to clutch driven them before never worked on them LOL

This is just a possibility... The closed driveline front u-joints are kind famous for being the weak point. If its snapped, you wont go anywhere in any gear, all youll hear is clunking,,or no noise. You also wont be able to see it from underneath, as youll have to slide the "bell" back to expose the u-joint assembly.