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What did you get done on your Bolt today? - 2021 and later
The original thread is still in tact and we have 14 pages already for this time frame. A "mini-Project Journal" if you will.

Stovebolt driving report
Started by Cletis in 2012 - 36 pages and going strong!

Who uses their truck as a truck - 2021 and later

Re-started this thread. Three pages and counting.

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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 39
Wrench Fetcher
I had many of the same issues with the biggest issue being the metric thread at the bottom. They (CD) also sold me a US thread extention at the same time. Now how is that supposed to work?

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 27
I had the same problem when I got my new tank from American Classic. I cut the vent tube down and used a longer hose to connect it to the filler. I tried to bend it but it was going to require to much pressure. Don't recall a problem with metric. Got a new sending unit at the time also, still haven't got that thing working. Can the gauge on the dash burn out or ware out?
I will say I am having a lot of fun drive the truck around town now.

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 113
Shop Shark
I guess I need to pull mine out of the box again and check it. ordered mine through LMC and though it looked good at first glance I never really put it side by side to the old one. Ill do today and let you know what theirs looks like although I am sure they are pretty much all the same. And like many, I have had it sitting for months now waiting its turn to be installed so it is past any return date even if it is bad.

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,773
Well we got the new fuel tank that Ken turned us on to. It's made by Spectra Premium Industries Inc. and we installed it today. I didnít want to comment any more till we had a chance to look it over good and install it. And this one is certainly not a cheap repop off shore tank. It looks as good as the original tank and it fits just as good and I might add that one would be hard pressed to tell this tank from an original. And the best thing about a new tank is there is no rust to remove which means no thin spots to worry about in the future, no worry that the rubber or plastic or paint coating inside may come loose and clog up your system and you will have a tank that is Ni-terne coated inside and out just as the original ones were before the insides were eaten away after years of use. If the original tank lasted 60 years then the forum member thatís around in 2070 can report back on whether this one has stood the test of time.
The line up:
All connected up:
The original threaded outlet and the new, both 1/8Ē NPT and in this case not metric as in the first one made off shore.

Lesson learned, donít buy your replacement tank unless the vendor can tell you where itís coming from, and whether it has a standard NPT pipe fitting in the bottom. If itís coming from off shore tell them they can keep it, if itís coming out of Spectra Premium then youíre assured of getting a good product.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 303
How much was your tank through spectra? I visited their site and it was not easy to navigate and I did not see any prices.

1953 Chevrolet 3100 1/2 ton-previously abandoned resto.

My Project Bolt

I hate when people leave their brains at home. Seriously when did critical thinking and customer service go out the window? How about common sense and striving to go the extra mile? Idiots, surrounded by idiots it tell you.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,773
Sent you back a pm.

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 482
Shop Shark
Denny My tank was the same way ,bought it from Classic parts also.I should of known better they were the cheapest that's what I get for not checking before buying.I sent it back and just cleaned up the old tank really well and used POR15 tank sealer .

Stovebolt Gallery
1952 Chevy 3100
1953 Chevy 4400
1965 Nova
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 194
Shop Shark
OH crap! I will have to look at mine. But for me it is too late. Got it months ago from Classic Parts and I decided to paint it before testing the fit. Visually it looked OK other than my old tank looked a bit straighter, as far as the actual full lenght of the tank was concerned. And there was a bit of shipping damage.

Mine is for a 57 3100 but looks like a have problems. The tank kind of fits the floor OK but the filler necks are off quite a bit! They are pointing too far up and to far into the cab (forward) area.

And I see that the little bump from shipping that bent the edge of the pipe actually pushed the pipe base mounting area in at the top of the gas tank and out at the bottom of the filler neck So mine had more damage in shipping than I thought! crap. Should have regected it from UPS.

And to top that off if I cover the sender holes and the filler neck and pressurize the tank a bit there is a leak somewhere around the base of the filler tubes or in the seam of the tank around that area. I can not tell exactly but it leaks air so it will leak gas. That is why I was replacing the original one!

Well I guess I ate that $145 plus $28 shipping.!

I guess I could look into having someone try to bend it back into shape and try to weld the hole wherever that is.

Is that stupid or is it something that could be done?

EDIT: I found that there is a really small pinhole at the base of the big neck where it attaches to the tank. Is there a way to patch it? Like with JB-weld or something? I see they have a JB Water Weld that they say can be used for gas tanks, water and fuel cans, ruptured radiators, oil pans etc.

Also is three a good way to bend the pipes back into alighnment? They need to go down and toward the back of the cab about and inch or more in both directions.

Also how in the heck do you get the outside gas tank filler neck grommet on and be able to still put the filler neck up throught it?

I tried putting the grommet on and then put the filler up thru it from behind but there does not seem to be a way to do that. Hole is smaller than the filler neck. Also tried putting filler neck way up as far out of the hole as it would go and then put the grommet on but there is no room to manouver and get the grommet into the hole and fit around the inside of the hole. What is the correct way to do it?

Last edited by svwilbur; Sat Jan 15 2011 03:59 AM.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 198
Shop Shark
I got one from LMC for a 58. It was the same as origional and installed wih no problem.
The modifications usually can be done by a good radiator repair shop, don't know the cost.They may be able to use the old filler neck. May be cheaper to buy another that fits.

1954 Chevy Half-Ton
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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1958 Chevy 1/2-Ton Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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<> + <> + <> + <> + <>
"Time's fun when you're having flies." ~~ OLD FROG
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 194
Shop Shark
Ok so I made a template using my old tank and marked the positions of the filler neck and the air breather pipe. Then I compared it to the new tank. It was like an inch too high and 1 1/2 inches too far forward toward the front of the truck.

I did that with the tanks out. Then I took a floor jack handle and stuck it down the filler neck and slowly applied pressure in the needed direction a few times. while doing this I also stuck a phillips head screw driver in the breather hole and bend that as needed to keep it aligned. I got the filler neck to be possitioned to behind the tank half seam again but I still needed it to go down more toward the floor. A few more slow bends and it lined up pretty perfectly.

Some of the paint around the neck chipped off (I had painted it with Tank Tone from Eastwood). But I did not see any damage resulting from bending it back. No tears.

As mentioned before there was a small pinhole at the bottom of the tank and it would leak air if I pressurzed with my mouth on the breather pipe and held the filler pipe closed with my hand and held my hand over the sending mount holes.

Well the really strange thing is now with it bent back to the correct location where everything lines up, the pin hole has stopped leaking!

I am not sure I understand that. It maybe got the metal close enough by bending it back that there is no longer a hole?

I pressurized it with my mouth again and held it for a 60 seconds and there was no hissing and when I released all the air came back out.

Well I guess to be safe I will take it to a radiator shop or somewhere and see if they can pressure test it and re-sweat it if needed.

I also tried seeing how it sits in the truck and everything lines up good. And with the pads under it it is pretty snug. Without the pads it teaters a bit as the tank is a bit bend over one of the pad areas causing it to teater. But with the pads it seems to be fine.

I guess I can use this tank. I just should get it pressure tested or something.

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