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tclederman #448696 Wed Sep 03 2008 09:35 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 205
6
Shop Shark
Tim - Spot,

I have my re-built valve sitting in my office, I pulled it and looked at it, and infact that is the number stamped on the reverse side from what Woody showed in his photo, it is preceeded by the letter C, and underneath it has BLR 5. It is very difficult to read on my valve.

Mike


My old truck's still running good, my ticker's ticking like they say it should, I got supper in the oven, a good woman's loving, and even my bad days aint that bad...Yeah, I'm a lucky man!
1953 Chevy 3100 Shortbed

1965 C-30 Panel Truck
1963 C-20 Long/Fleet Pick-up California Black Plate
tclederman #448876 Thu Sep 04 2008 05:15 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,748
S
'Bolter
Thanks Tim for the valuable resource. Had heard about the online manual project but had not seen it. I've saved it to "favorites" for future use.

Thanks again!!

Spot


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Spotbiltxo #449861 Sun Sep 07 2008 04:30 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,748
S
'Bolter
I'm still wondering if when I have the heater control valve in the "coolest" positon (off?) will the coolant still circulate through the heater core and give off any heat in the cab? I still don't have the truck ready for the road so I haven't been able to answer my own question.

Thanks,
Spot


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Spotbiltxo #593656 Thu Nov 19 2009 12:40 AM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13
T
Apprentice
Spot:

Did you ever get the information on recoring the heaters from the radiator shop you found? I need to have my '51 heater recored and there are probably several more guys who are interested.

Larry


Tarheel
65PanelMike #593677 Thu Nov 19 2009 01:32 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 31
B
Apprentice
What I installed in my truck is locally called a "fuffle" valve. It can be bought at any Napco store. It's simply an on/off
pull lever that is installed on the hot water line in the engine comp. I utilized the choke pull for the activator. That way there's only heat when you what it.

Big Yellow #593960 Fri Nov 20 2009 01:46 AM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,693
P
Shop Shark
I had My deluxe heater recored at a place called heat and cool last month it was 85.00 they told Me they do not make that type of core anymore but they were able to modify by cutting up two cores from some other cores it works and fits too.So it can be done old timers always have a fix.


Pete

Pete52 #594047 Fri Nov 20 2009 01:01 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,772
D
'Bolter
Right on Pete, I've heard that "can't be done" story from a lot of guys. It seems to me that their radiator shop is just one of those flush and paint shops and not a real radiator shop. Any good radiator shop should be able to re-core any radiator as long as the upper and lower tanks are salvageable. Might not be the same core design but for a small heater most any core design should work. By the way, $85 is really a good price for that work, hang onto that shop’s number.
Hate to put you on the spot again buddy, but if you have an online album it would be interesting to see a couple of pictures of that re-cored heater. There has been a lot of discussion on this subject in the past and any new findings would be more than welcome.

Hey there Mellow Yellow, you can also use a ball valve from Harbor Freight but I think a lot of the guys are trying to stay with the correct Ranco thermostatically controlled valves that the trucks had in them originally. There has been a lot of discussion on those also and Woody has posted some nice photos of his rebuild in his album.
And Spot, if the Ranco valve is properly rebuilt and adjusted and if the diaphragm is still intact when you turn off the heat it should shut off the water flow, at least most of it. The internal valve seat is not a very good fit in these valves so you may still feel a little heat but you'll have that from the firewall also so I doubt if you would notice it.
I've driven my stock 1950 for three summers on those Midwest dog days and as long as your moving these trucks are quite comfortable. And I might add that the deluxe heaters do an adequate job in the colder weather also when everything is as it should be.
Lets not loose sight of the fact that this is 60 year old tecnology, you can't expect the heaters to work as well as the one in your 2009 Silverado. Also, back in the day, men were men and they could handle things being a little rougher than the men of today.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Last edited by Denny Graham; Fri Nov 20 2009 01:08 PM.
Denny Graham #594263 Sat Nov 21 2009 05:52 AM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,693
P
Shop Shark
It looked much the same as the old core and I forgot to take any pic's I came home and put it in right away, I had the rebuilt rad and the heater core and wanted to get the engine running after I rebuilt it .But there are places that still have that get it done mentality and just look at somthing and say I can fix that also living near Chicago is good and bad on the good side there is alot of options when it comes to getting things parts or repairs .

Pete

Pete52 #594379 Sat Nov 21 2009 08:33 PM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 14
M
Wrench Fetcher
We have been taking all our fresh air heater cores to the same radiator repair shop for over 30 years now.
We found out that the old timer that runs the place will be retiring & selling the property.
This guy is the only guy that I have found that knows how to repair & pressure test the fresh air cores.

Since we knew his days at this shop are numbered.... we took all our heaters apart & had him repair & pressure test all of our cores.

We were lucky... we took him 4 cores at a time & he only charged us $20 to repair & pressure test them.... Our $80 investment neted us 16 good cores.



http://members.cox.net/images4755/Img_4373.jpg

Here is a good shot of one of our NOS heater control valves for reference.

http://members.cox.net/mothertruckeraz/Img_3847.jpg

One note of caution regarding our fresh air heaters & control valves...
Our old radiator repair man said that the original cooling system is designed for a zero pressure radiator cap....
He stipulates no more than a 4 lb. cap is to be used with these original heating systems.

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11,772
D
'Bolter
And he was absolutely correct, I made this setup to check the heater cores and Ranco valves and made the mistake of bringing one of the cores up to about 8lbs and clould hear the tubes creaking and expanding. The original cores are simply not made to take pressure. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/harrison_h-02-47&page=2
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

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