Stovebolt.com Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre 'Nother new guy from the Mitten State

Thanks to all of your responses. Yes, I will prove my son wrong. I 'm now an Army Dad, as he is now in S.Korea, as part of the 2ID.
Anyway, there are a lot of 'options' that can be inserted when reassembling a 'steel puzzle' in this day and age. Since there is so much missing, this truck will turn into a street rod project before long. My aim is to use General Motors parts, in a GM truck. I may not be staying inside the lines, but will work mostly "outside the box", but will make it functional.
Does anyone know if they ever made a pickup with a dump box? I also realize that if this route is taken it will get heavier axles. I use a welder as part of my 'hobby' and have worked helping to make airplane hangar doors. I make my own utility trailers. I am on my 2nd, 1ton 4-door Chevy P/U [a 1989 and now a 2000 CK3500], so this will be a double challenge to see just how much room I can get out of a 'little' truck. Again, thanks for the input and your time.

Thanks guys. Just got back from being on staff at the TrainFestival in Owosso. {Steam Locomotive Heaven}
Now I can get the frame and cab home, and then get you some pics posted here. I do arc welding and some blacksmithing, so it should be an interesting build for me.

Thanks guys. Truck is finally in the garage.
1] I was going to make it a monster truck with 1-ton axles, but it'd be too much mess and modifications. I just want to drive it, and prove a lot of people wrong.
2] It doesn't have a steering box or column. What years are these items interchangeable with?
3] Will stick with the existing axles, just make them 'better' than stock. Newer GM parts in a GMC truck. I know LMC has the conversion from ball to roller bearings on the front axle. BTW, does anyone know what can be done to swap out the torque tube diff for a more modern application? want to focus on the chassis first.
4] I know it needs a bit of new steel in the floor, [particularly the curbside] as it has been driven on Michigan roads, and no rustproofing existed in those days.

Finally did something, that's a start...! Arc welded a crack in the frame behind the first running board bracket on the passenger side. Laid it up vertically on it wheels, with the come-along. It sits on the jack stands again. Next on the list is replacing the floorpan. The cab was removed with ropes and a 1/2ton come-along, and a wooden truss in the rafters. It presently sits on a wooden cart with caster wheels, on its back. Looking at doing the buckets/console street rod uograde. i can't see in spending $700 for a floor I can replace myself for a fraction of the cost. I can get a 4x8 sheet of 16guage sheet steel locally for just $45, and some tubes and angles, to make the floor solid enuff to dance on. Will note and remount the rear cab mounts in the proper locations [to be detiremined and noted]. When this is done, will set it up on the frame to find and note the front mounting hole locations, then set it back on the cart, "nose-down" to work some new steel into the rear edges of the pan at the cab walls. Then it will sit upright, and then I can start putting the cab parts back on.
....Still going to be a modern-day Frankenstien to some folks. Beauty IS in the eyes of the creator, but not the beholder.

OK. Now since I'm thinking of keeping with the stock front axle, the question arises? Where does one get a 'rebuild kit' for the kingpins, let alone what do I do with the tie rod ends and other linkages, in as much as replacements? I don't think I can get these at Autozone. I have a nibble on a steering box from another member, and will act upon it, straight away. Set yer hooks.

The rear end that is on the truck had its torque tube butchered with a torch, so that is the main reason for all the inquiries and other rear end types. Besides, the THM350 in the garage will give me some rebuilding practice.
Also, if I'm able to stay with the six-lug wheel arrangement and the Blazer rear end, I can stiffen the suspension and take her two-tracking without too much flaring of the fenders. Asit is, I plan to make her into a short-sided dumping flat bed, so I won't need the pickup box and rear fenders. I want to keep the tailgate, and make it a part of the upright of the bed, since it the only item I have so far that shows the truck type. I could use a GMC emblem[s] for the hood, or just make them from scratch when I design and build the grille and front bumper setup.

I did a bit of measuring and taking notes on a sheet of loose leaf paper. There is now a wooden framework in place, that will hold most of the cab together while acting as spacers in place of the doors. These will be in place during the design and installation of a new floor.
...The 16 guage sheet is next to get, and the angles and square tubing. There is a space for one piece of 48 x 57 inches of sheet steel from the firewall, to the back edge of the old seat frame. This will be welded to the 2x3 angles on the edges of the cab frame, and attach to the vertical sides just below the floor, and the firewall. yes, I might be building a battleship.
... For now, this will have to do. When I get some spending cash, there will be more new cab parts bought and not fabbed. Once the floor is attached, the cab goes back onto the frame to locate mounting holes.

... sounds interesting. Sure would love to see some pics whenever possible. Keep us posted.

Ok. got the first 5 pics in the photo gallery incoming list. check 'em out.

Since the '53 floor will be replaced, is the existing seat frame and stuff on the old floor worth keeping? Does anybody need it?

My truck is on the back burner, since I'm replacing parts of the floor in my camper. [got to keep the peace]
Soon as that, and other things are done, I can return to working with fresh sheet steel.