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Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52970 Mon Nov 28 2005 05:41 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,175
J
Shop Shark
I had to have a flywheel welded on my 1929 Fairmont Railroad engine. It was a castiron flywheel that cracked at the locating keyway. I had a local high tech welding shop do it. They could only braze it due to the poor quility of castiron. I would bet your block is of equal poor quality.
It may seem like a lot of work, but you might want to JB Weld those pieces back in and pressure check the rest of the block. Plus like the above post suggested, check the cylinder walls in that same area. If it all checks fine, remove the broken parts and sandblast the area before heading to the repair shop. You wouldn't want to speed a lot of money for a repair, just to fine it broke on the other side! Joe

Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52971 Mon Nov 28 2005 06:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,697
A
Master Gabster
Joe H,

Hey....a speeder! smile


Stuart

Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52972 Mon Nov 28 2005 07:09 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,068
H
Shop Shark
I once patched a hole in a transmission with a piece of sheetmetal and JB-weld. I didn't give it 2 days, but the darn thing lasted years! JB-weld is amazing stuff!


52 GMC 3/4 ton pickup
68 Big Block Vette
68 455 Firebird
Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52973 Thu Dec 01 2005 12:28 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,397
6
Shop Shark
JB weld was also used successfully @ the machine shop I worked at, if the break was in an unpressurized area it was used almost exclusively. Grind a Vee, rough area w/80 grit & JB away. Brian


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
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Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52974 Thu Dec 01 2005 01:07 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 308
A
Shop Shark
i must admit i used jb weld on both sides of a 305 in a 89 chevy 4x4 that was allowed to freaze. ran great drove it a year and when i traded the truck it still ran fine and did not run hotat all .that quick steel also works well


ya I know a few rednecks.Thay all drive chevys to,
Proud member of the Old Dominion Stovebolt Society
AND A MARINE
trucks range from 1942 1/2 ton to 1965 fire engine
Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52975 Fri Dec 02 2005 01:34 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 423
O
Shop Shark
I've heard of this method from a very old timer smile ... Preheating is not necessary. Clean area to be welded, drill small hole at start and and end of where the weld will be (along the crack) I guess drilling the hole will stop the crack, because the crack will just get bigger when welded if you don't. Use a rod suitable for cast iron. And here's the tricky part... only run about a 1" bead at a time. Immediately after you put the torch down, use a hammer and tap on the weld until it is cooled down. I forget exactly what that does, but it's necessary. Inch by inch and tapping on it is what the old guy said to do. He also said that he repaired a block on a tractor one time- it was about a 8" crack and took all day!

Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52976 Fri Dec 02 2005 01:43 AM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 198
A
Member
I have mig welded a 6 inch crack two years ago in a 50's car engine block using the mig welder with stainless wire, an have had no leaks as yet over 6000 miles on the repair now.

Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52977 Fri Dec 02 2005 06:19 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 991
A
Member
Albert is right with the MIG. I have MIGed two broken exhaust manifolds that are still going strong (69 292 engine in 59 truck, and 47 cj2a) and I even redid the rear shock mounts on the rear axle of the 59 truck. 2 years, and a couple of 3000 lb loads ago. All still working good. Becuase of the localized heat of MIG its supposed to do well.

And as for the JB weld side, I even fixed an alternator mount on a phjord 302 in a MK VII. I didn't give it long, lasted the 5 years I had the car!

Re: Welding a cast Iron Block??
#52978 Fri Dec 02 2005 10:54 PM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 33
O
ove Offline
Apprentice
Main ting is to assembey the parts as tight as possible, try to pre heat a bit, use proper rods for cast iron, go only 1" at a time and tap w a ball hammer while it cools down a bit. For about a minute or so. This to prevent metal to schrink after beeing heated localy. It is realy tricky, and rods exspencive, but absolutely possible.

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