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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 44
3
39 7M Offline OP
'Bolter
What intake, carbs ,header, cam, head work , piston and what ever else that i need to have done .Thanks for every ones help

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,576
ODSS President
Do some reading. Search "261". Loads of stuff. People may not be wanting to repeat what they've already said... lot's of information for your build. Also inliners.org this is the place for people that have addressed your quest several different ways.


Cosmo

"...my good horse Rocinante ('49 Chevy Half Ton), mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes

"If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra

"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer

Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,250
J
'Bolter
Also get yourself a catalog from Patrick's, it's loaded with great info. And as Cosmo say's check out Inliners.org, 'Members' have access to tech advisors that can lead you in the best direction for your engine.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy [stovebolt.com]
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed [stovebolt.com]
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,812
Bubba - Curmudgeon

Try searching on 261 in The Engine & Driveline Shop forum.

Here is one thread from a few days ago.



Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,912
S
Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats
Use the Search function


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 388
H
Shop Shark
Have you discovered this link currently active in the engine and driveline shop ? Read tclederman's reply and links. Also, checkout the Inliners' site? The '54 261 is a great engine - the high water mark of the stovebolt engines.

Hoyt

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 334
B
'Bolter
the link that hoyt has posted above was started by me. it has been great. check out the articles that tc and sweet linked to.

call patrick's. talked to them the other day. lots of good info, especially do's and dont's, and even some costly unnecessary work i was thinking of.

http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/index.htm

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,318
F
Shop Shark
A couple suggestions......find a competent automotive machinist who has a history with Inline GM engines and be ready pay a little extra to get name brand replacement parts. I'd avoid the "rebuild kits" that feature the majority of "Offshore" parts and build on the mindset that the 4 main bearing 261 was initially a "torque builder" engine. Trying to nurse more revs out of a torque engine is just going to cost you big bucks and leave you disappointed with the end result.

By capitalizing on the low-end torque you can set up your GEARING to maximize the potential of your engine. I see no reason to spin a low rpm/high torque engine out of it's torque band. You'll extend your engine's service life, have better fuel economy and overall improved performance. I'm currently running a .72 S10 T5 transmission but have found the Camaro W/C T5 has an even better gear spread which will maximize performance within the torque band. If you haven't driven a GM Inline 6 with a 5 speed (and the correct gearing) you've missed a really fun experience.

As was pointed out, there are numerous "standard" add-on parts to slightly improve performance....some inexpensive machine shop modifications such as drilling the crank for a SBC harmonic balancer bolt to draw on your H/B, tweaking your full-flow filtering system, modifying the timing cover so it can be pulled without dropping the pan, and I also suggest a full rotational balance. So why balance a low-rpm engine? On my 60-235 we found a 13 gram differential in rod weights in the running core I purchased. Regardless of what anybody says, I'm thoroughly convinced it was additional money well spent.

The whole key to getting a good running engine is to find a really competent, enthusiastic engine machinist/builder. There are some little improvements he can suggest that will insure you get the most bang for your buck.

Dave


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