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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,586
F
'Bolter
Jon G Not gonna throw anything but have to downplay guide knurling,it just wears out too soon. In the case for our old castings looks like bronze walls are the safest and very durable. However iron guides have kept these engines alive until old geezers like us could take over, right ?? So I'm not afraid to take the chance and drive in new iron guides. I pressed in a set a while back,lot better to use a big hammer and driver to fit. they're running using fresh 350 exhaust valves hard seats ,hard button on the stem in the 235 1948 splash oiler. Gonna go get ready to haul and spread white rock now !!

Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,586
F
'Bolter
JW51 Where did you see bronze guides ?? I would like to have a set of those,anytime you see bronze it is usually something durable !!

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 26,973
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
It sounds like your 848 head is pretty close to being a boat anchor. Drop me a PM and I'll respond with a phone number. There's a few tricks involved in increasing the compression of the early head to make it pretty much equivalent to an 848, but it's best discussed in a 2-way conversation, not with a keyboard. That's what the hotrodders did before 848's became generally available in salvage yard
.
Anybody with a lathe and a micrometer can make his own bronze valve guides, but why bother? Thin wall bronze guide liners are cheap, plentiful, and easy to install. I'll be doing that to a 216 head in the next few days.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,724
5
52Carl Offline OP
Renaissance Man
My neighbor Jethro (only an hour and a half down the road), horse traded me an unmolested 848 head off of a '57 235.
It is at the machine shop now to be cleaned up and magna-fluxed, and to check the valve guides, valves, and seat conditions.

Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 3,158
O
'Bolter
That's great. Now you can stop worrying about the truck and go relax in the Cee-ment pond!


1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom)
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck)
1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather)
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif)
1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red)
1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,724
5
52Carl Offline OP
Renaissance Man
Popped in at the machine shop today to hopefully pick up my rebuilt head. It was not done. They had not even ordered the parts yet. He printed out and handed me a quote for the job. $845.30. He said that it needs all new valves, seats, and valve guides.
My chin hit the counter and I just stared at the quote. He said, "You can take your time and think about it."
I think that he gave me a, "We don't want to work on this head price."
What say you?

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 8,073
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I think that he doesn't want to do it. Of course the last time I had valve work done was on my Model A when I was in college. I drove to the machine shop, removed the head, watched while he repaired the seats and replaced the valves (I had bought some cheapo offshore ones that burnt out in short order), paid him maybe $50, replaced the head and drove back to my dorm. So I really don't know what the going rate is. ohwell


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,652
J
'Bolter
Yep, my chin hit my desktop and I agree with you. This is the same shop that worked on it before? Kind of lost for words, there. Didn't Jerry say he had a head?


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 3,602
AD Addict
Sound a bit steep to me. Definitely an “I don’t want to work on your head price”.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: 12v w/alternator, HEI & PCV
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,812
Bubba - Curmudgeon
"$845.30. He said that it needs all new valves, seats, and valve guides."

Carl,

Does that include prepping/machining and reassembly of the head?

What are your options?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
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