Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop ‘51 3100 engine/transmission options

This is with respect to my 51 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton with the stock 216 and 3 speed and torque tube
I found a nice running 235 engine from a 58 car.
It comes complete with a 3 speed manual transmission (I think non-overdrive, but to be confirmed)
The simple swap would be to use the original truck transmission currently mated to the 216, retaining the torque tube rear end.
If calling it 'done' at that, I might change the ratio on the orig rear end but wouldn't go to that expense if swapping to open obviously.

Is there anything to be gained from using the car transmission, which then requires the rear-end and open propshaft?
I'm thinking probably not, but am open to suggestion to the contrary

If going to the effort/expense of an open drive, then it opens up the possibility for other transmissions incl a 3-speed overdrive or an automatic (and multiple choices there)

Your thoughts and advice will be most welcome.

I'd go with the easiest bolt in swap you can do instead of opening a can of worms. Don't fix what isn't broken. Drop in the new engine and sell the rest on ebay to finance the job.

You'd have to have a driveshaft made, etc., etc.

Like Otto said ^^^^^^^^



If it were me ,I would just do the engine swap and get back on the trail again 👍😁



I am going to a .040 over 283 in my 62 and I am looking for the hydraulic clutch bellhousing. Then I can set it back down in there easily on the mounts like it was. 👍

The 58 combo will not fit without major mods... none of the engine mounts bolt in. 168 tooth flywheel means you have to convert to 12 volts. Bell housing lacks bell crank for the 3100 shifter. Clutch linkage doesn't fit... ugh!

Mate the 235 to the 216 flywheel/ bell housing. Use the 6v stomp starter (a must... the 216 flywheel has 139 teeth. Only mates to a 6v starter. Works great with a 12v system. The 58 flywheel has 168 teeth for a 12v starter only.) Then drill 2 holes in the timing cover for a 216 front mount. The unit will now bolt right on.. Modify the waterpump to clear the radiator and mount whatever tranny you want.
Little tricky figuring the geometry of the carb linkage. I had to use the linkage from the 216.

Take your time, don't get in a hurry and be careful.

Thanks for those inputs - I hadn't posted with regard to the engine swap, thought that part was straight forward.
I'm going to post this in the engine section to invite further interaction there in this regard

The good thing about this deal is it comes with everything including transmission, bell-housing, clutch, starter and all else - manifolds, carb, etc etc
So between the two I should have most of the parts I need whichever way I go regarding an open-drive or the OEM torque tube driveline.

My system is already 12V and as you suggest the 6V starter works just fine. Cranks it over handily
I had planned to swap from bell-housing, back from the 216 if going with the original transmission and per the earlier advice, sounds like that would be the best plan.
So starter, bellhousing, clutch concerns etc should be moot
I'lll certainly be keeping those parts from the 235, should an open drive transmission swap be a consideration at a later time.

I had thought the 235 engine was already equipped for the Truck forward mounts; so the later car engine does not have those? I'll do some research on the required mod for making those holes in the timing cover (if someone has a link there to the detail it will save me a search)

I had recognized regarding the water pump, my understanding is there are adapters available for that and that was already a consideration.

Can you expand on the carb linkage? It's all cables on the 51 truck obviously - again, I have the 216 so anything from that is available - what exactly did you have to do?

Any other inputs would be sincerely appreciated.

Isn't the choke and throttle cables, the only cable related items to the carb, whereas the linkage (from the pedal) itself is mechanical?

Haven't done this in a long time, but as I recall the issues with using a later car engine/trans combo have to do with the difference in mounts. In order to use the car trans it will need an additional crossmember under the trans. Moving forward, the next issue is mounts for the engine itself. The front bottom mount from the truck can't be used as there will be no resistance to rotation with two (front and rear) bottom center mounts. So one has to construct mounts using the side mount pads on the engine Doable for sure but not 'bolt-in' by any stretch.

Of course using the 216 bell housing and original trans would allow the truck front mount to be used. By far the easiest solution.

The rear mounts are located on the bellhousing which limits rotational torque. I have a ‘59 235 installed in my ‘52 3100 and the only thing that was not bolt in was the adaptor plate for the 216 water pump I used. You may have to drill the timing plate to adapt the front mount. A template for drilling can be found on ‘Pre ‘68 Dave’s’ website. Here is a link. http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/search/label/Timing%20Plate%20Drill%20Template

Read and heed Phak1's post :

"You may have to drill the timing plate to adapt the front mount. A template for drilling can be found on ‘Pre ‘68 Dave’s’ website. Here is a link."

‘Pre ‘68 Dave’s’ website:
adapter and explanation. [chev235guy.blogspot.com]
I do not see a link for buying the plate from Dave?

Here is the plate sold by a different vendor. [chevsofthe40s.com]

One of our own members, "Pre '68 Dave" invented this plate and you can buy one directly from him by contacting him via PM on this site or email pre68bowtie@hotmail.com, listed on his website. This plate is being reproduced by others that are not giving Dave any royalties, so I don't know if the one on "Chev's of the Forty's" is one of his or not. contact him directly and this way you can be sure he gets the money he deserves.