Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Like Martin said, WD40 is NOT what you should use. It used to contain silicone (I don't think it does anymore) which shouldn't come anywhere near anything that's going to be painted. That's just wishing for fisheyes in your finished paint. But even if WD40 doesn't contain silicone anymore (and that's not certain), it's not what to use. WD40 does contain <35% petroleum base oil (non-hazardous heavy paraffins) (wax), which is equally bad for paint. You should use a specific wax and grease remover. Example [amazon.com]
Last edited by klhansen; Thu Jun 01 2023 02:03 AM. Reason: added WD 40 ingredient.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I just read your build and I commend you for doing such a monumental task. It looks like you will have blended modern engineering into an old classic truck perfectly. You’ll be driving her soon and I’ll be following along.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
Washed everything with WD40? That’s a body shop no no! The paint guys will be along shortly to explain why.
Yikes! good catch I used Formula 409, NOT WD-40. My next task is to use paint prep, a solvent the paint shop sold me similar to Acetone but doesn't evaporate as fast.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
It's OK Walter, we all have slips like that. But not me.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Who knew a simple typo would garner such response? Aside from the well meaning advice, this is the most replies this post has gotten. Thanks for the kudos! I have painted the inside of the fenders and the rear wheel wells Black. I installed a fan in the car tent, I hope the paint vapors don’t flash when they go through the fan motor. I’m aware of that issue, but this is what I have. I also mounted a spotlight at the back top of the tent. I have a 2’ stepladder that would make a good scaffold base for accessing the roof of the truck. I would need 5 more. I found some at a local hardware store, but at $50 each I decided to make my own out of wood. I spent a day making some. I also made 3 3’ sawhorses to support the fenders or doors. I still need more rack room! The 4 doors, 4 fenders, and hood take a lot of space when laid out for paint. I picked up a metal shelf system at an estate sale for $20. The problem with a panel truck is the amazing interior that is so useful for placing stuff. I have been partly working out of the back of the truck. Now it’s time to mask up for paint, everything I’ll need must be removed from the truck. I set up the metal shelf with paint supplies. All that stuff was in random piles here and there, now it’s mostly in one place.
I feel your pain (regarding rack room). Those of us doing standard pickups have box sides, etc. in addition although we only have 2 doors. I amtrying to determine how I am going to rack everything when I get to that point in my project.
I sprayed Primer and all the dings and scratches showed up. I worked over the worst areas a little, and then full speed ahead. The Cream Medium looks more like Buttermilk, I had the paint shop modify the mix slightly, but it is still very yellow. I proceeded to paint the top half Cream Medium, and the bottom half Windsor blue. Some drips in the primer I sanded smooth. Some drips in the Cream Medium yet to be addressed. The Windsor Blue went on nice. Working on the top half was cramped in the car tent. My back against the tent and the spray gun at my chest at times. The drips seemed to happen when the gun was too close. Now it’s time for final assembly. Before the hood goes on, the hood to cowl gasket needs to be installed. I found a picture in the shop manual for ’47 and ’48 versions, (notice the lower clip rotated from tightening down). The FAM and parts catalogs show images of later versions that seem to be shorter. The cowl vent gasket fits good, I decided to glue it in place. It feels good to install new rubber on new paint. I went on to the rear door hinges, used some spray soap to coax the hinges through the gasket while holding the gasket in place. Now for the Fenders, The Rear Fender Welt is not as wide as whatever was originally between the fender and body. I thought about using some roofing tarpaper as a gasket along with the welt as a garnish. The welt might be wide enough to reach the mounting bolts. My plan is to get a hole punch for paper to make some nice holes and see how it fits.
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Wow that is a tight spot, but it looks like you're getting it done. I have a similar tent I've been using for some painting, but may be smaller than yours. Mine is 10'x10'x8' and I don't think I'll have enough room to paint the cab in there. I see that you're using the 3M PPS system. I like that system as it's pretty easy to clean up after painting.
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Yes I am using the 3M PPS system spraygun. I guess I got one of the last first gen, then I had to get a case of the lids and liners. It is easy to clean up but it does generate a lot of waste. I got a half gallon of each color and used one lid and liner for each. I have some spots to touch up, but I’m waiting until I’m done with assembly in case I create more. I will use a new lid and liner each time I spray. I kind of missed the whole spray booth concept. I was spraying in a tent, and I did have an exhaust fan so that was covered. I had the end open and saw clouds of paint blowing down the road. Next time I’ll keep the end closed and put a filter over the fan. I got the wiper transmission in place and realized I had no gaskets. I ordered the gaskets along with the windshield center bar and the front hood ornament. The original center bar was in good shape, but two bolts were stuck. The front emblem looked o.k. but the attaching hardware was trashed and the chrome was peeling. A friend helped me move the hood to the truck. I had installed the hood by myself when I got the truck over 20 years ago. I tried every combination of assembly until I finally tried to attach the springs to the truck last, that did it. I had to modify a couple of the hinge to body bolts, the kit I got had pointy bolts that were too long and interfered, so I cut them shorter. The hood is not sitting down enough, I’ll look at that later. I attached weatherstrip to the rear doors. I had read about leaving extra on the left door to fill the gap, so I did. I thought I could stab the rear doors onto the hinges, but that was not happening. I had a helper over to hold the door while I tried to get the hinges through the grommets, but no. I ended up removing the hinges from the truck and installing them on the doors. Then I was able to hold the door myself and work the hinges through the grommets on the truck with some soapy liquid. I reattached the front doors and installed the latches and striker plates. They close nicely. My son said he wanted to help me with the windshield. I got everything ready and removed the new glass from the bubble wrap. He took the bubble wrap and proceeded to pop while I put the weatherstrip on the glass. I used soapy liquid on one side, I’m not sure it helped and it made it hard to handle. I did not use soapy liquid on the other side. We moved the glass to the truck and the soapy side was easier than the dry side. I used boot strings and worked each side in simultaneously going inch by inch. After the weatherstrip was in place the soapy side was easy to final adjust, the dry side not so much. I had also applied some adhesive to the center, don’t do that. The center rubber was slightly off. We were able to get the upper 3 bolts through to the center divider. I made a special tool to get the last one lined up and cinched down. A 2” 10-32 bolt with a nut and washer, then I used real duct tape, aluminum, to hold the center divider in place while I swapped in the final bolt. Installed the window trim and mirror. Headliner needs to go in before the door trim. The first piece required some modification to accommodate the center retaining bolts. I tried to install the second piece of headliner, but I don’t have 3 arms. I cleaned up some of the accumulation in the truck and found a bag of the headliner retainers and fasteners. I moved on to the sun visor. I used some cord to hang the visor in place. I’m not sure what kind of visor this is, maybe a Dieterich. It came with the truck, but I never attached it. I recently purchased some Dieterich end brackets, they bolt onto the visor and clamp to the driprail at the same time. I wrangled with that for awhile and finally got one bolt on each side. Then I found the doorgap on the passenger side was too tight to clear the visor bracket. I tried to hammer the bracket, but it popped off.