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I spent considerable time with the emergency brake bracket again to re-thread one of the three (welded in nuts, if you will, that is part of the bracket) holes that hold the fastener bolts, that help attach the driver's side inner fender to the front firewall

Painted it again black cause of marking it up with holding it with vice grips or clamps or an inexpensive vice that really is rather useless.

Primed and painted the c shaped emergency brake thick rod piece.

(See pic)

I have:

1) cleaned up the long brake rod and was able to get the adjustable clasp off. Both are primed.

2) grabbed the steering wheel from my parts stash and will use J B Weld to fill in all the cracks to have it look more presentable

(see before pic)

I have:

1) wiped down the front and back of the steering wheel with acetone in preparation of applying J B Weld to all the cracks;

2) used a wire brush on the Dremel to remove rust from a nut that is used to secure the u bolt on the adjustable emergency brake rod;

3) mounted parts of the emergency brake mechanism on the outside of the firewall.

See pics.

Never use acetone on non metallic objects
Acetone is a solvent for ALL organic molecules
It is used for rinsing out all equipment before sensitive organic experiments for a reason
Acetone is the reason your old timey screwdriver handles slowly keep getting gummy and melting and sticky
Acetone is the only molecule that starts to permanently unravel the cross linking in many plastics
It’s the best way to screw up a material if you don’t know anything about it and only have one shot and messing up
I hope it didn’t mess up your job
But that’s super risky
Acetone is a no no on plastics
It comes in a metal can for a reason
That one and “gun wash” are super bad for plastics
Isopropyl Alcohol would have been a much more appropriate solvent in this case
Able to lift all oils and dry the surface while not damaging the plastic

If you haven’t proceeded yet to the next step
I strongly suggest you hard bake the surfaces that have been exposed to acetone to drive it all out

And wait a week to see if they survived
The acetone residue will also not be compatible
With any new paint you plan to use anyway
-s

Wow, good to know!

Sir, Got it! I will take your comment to never use acetone on non-metalic surfaces as factual. And I will proceed to bake out the residual using a hand propane. Thanks 2manytrucks.

V/r,

Nick

I hooked up the emergency brake metal rod underneath the '52 'Burb's metal/wooden floor using new clevis bolts cut in half ($8.00) with cotter pins.

I finished attaching the emergency brake plate on the outside of the foot/engine firewall using new fasteners ($10.00).

Began cleaning up the emergency brake rod you pull to release the brake. All my fasteners are always bought at my local (Bel Air, MD) hardware store.

See Pics.

I found the aluminum front motor mount cover with my parts stash & cleaned it up using solvent followed by the Dremel wire brush & 1/2 inch wide by 18 inch belt sander (see pics).

Sanded & painted the circular long hardware item that holds the two shift rods together, running beside the steering column that allow the three on the tree to operate/function (see pics).

Finally found the '52 'Burb's lock guide & spring for the emergency brake pedal mechanism. I took it apart summer 2012 (11 years ago). I cleaned those items up. (see pics)

Cleaned up the bolts, washers & nuts for the front motor mount (see pics).

I went & fetched a 6,000 lb Heavy Duty Industrial Hoist from a mentor fellow (Mr. Charlie). I will be placing a '56 235 Stovebolt engine into the '52 Burb next month.

I now have completely assembled the '52 'Burb Carryall's emergency brake apparatus with the exception of buying the rubber boot/steel item(s) that mount on the floor, and a new rubber pedal face.

I am ready to move on to more exciting accomplishments, like placing a powerplant in it's cradle.

By the way, getting that emergency brake apparatus cleaned, painted, and assembled is pretty involved. There are like 15 different pieces to the assembly & that is not including cleaning up or purchasing fasteners. And that is only counting from the long rod forward and not cables or components inside the rear wheels where the shoes are located.