Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop NOS GM PCV Valve

I did that and cleaned it. The pintelle shows a wear mark and once assembled it doesn't function well. So I'll look for a new one before proceeding.

So I ended up buying a 13/16” inverted flare to 6AN fitting and turning off the 6AN side. I drilled and taped that side out for 1/4” female NPT. I ended up shortening a 1/4” pipe tap to get more and deeper threads due to the short 13/26” inverted flare adaptor. I Also bought two 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” inverted flare adaptors and a 4’ length of 3/8” CuNi tubing with pre flared ends.

The 13/16” inverted flare screws directly into the PCV valve, the 1/4” to 3/8” tubing adaptor screws into the fitting I altered then the tubing attaches to that. The manifold end has an existing female 1/4” NPT Tee that screws into the manifold, so the other end of the tubing and adaptor will go there. Unfortunately, My tubing bender only goes to 5/16”, so I need to buy another larger one. My “not so” local HF was out of stock, so I am stalled waiting until I can buy one. Hopefully tomorrow then I can Install my new system.

In the meantime, I assembled the fittings and PCV valve, cleaned up the assembly then painted it with my favorite rattle can satin black.

I installed the PCV system today and all of the pieces I collected fit together well. I don’t like all the extra fittings but the system is operating and seems like its working well. I tweaked the idle screw on the carb, but I don’t really think it needed it. Took it for a test run and it ran great.

I think I’ll keep my eye out for the original tubing and manifold that attaches to the intake but in the meantime it’s installed.

Phil,

Looks like a really nice job IMO. Not sure there is lot you can do to change the manifold fitting setup without some serious parts hunting.

Thanks for showing the finished work.

Dan

Did your route the vac linehigh enough to allow removal of the valve cover without having to disconnect the line?

I thought about that when I was planning out the job and figured that it would be easy enough to remove two flare nuts to get it out of the way. I looked at the original routing and it didn’t appear to be that high over the cover.

The drawing looks like its actually resting on the valve cover. I wouldn't think that was correct, though.

I have the factory setup and I remove the tube before removing the valve cover. Running the engine with the valve cover off requires replacing the tube or plugging the vacuum port under the carb. The tube does not rest on the valve cover.