Stovebolt.com Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1954 Chevy 3100

Found in a field about 30 miles away in Alabama

This is what I’ve fixed so far

Looking good, Doug.

Tell us more about this truck. History? Condition? What's your general plan?

Been working on the 54 for a couple months now..total rust bucket except for the body... dash was pitted with rust and guages were a mess..pictures are from the clean up and putting it back together.. Just finished the main part of a rewire kit and have lights now.. turn signals are on hold waiting for a new collar and turn signal assembly.. Just got the gas tank installed today and wouldn't you know it but the gas gauge doesn't work right.. but making progress.

I plan on getting it drivable and use as a daily driver.
Don’t really know much about the history but know get came to Alabama from Texas.

Just got the gas tank installed today and ran into a sending unit problem.

Looking good! Those sending units can be fussy!

Yes. Sending unit problem? You don’t say…

That dash looks great!

Today's progress..

Got the oil pressure gauge hooked up top and bottom.. thats next to last opening on the engine.

Last opening to fill is water temp sending unit... took me from yesterday staring with penetrating oil and hitting it with the impact wrench a couple times until I gave up.. hit with the penetrating oil heavily before retiring for the day.

Today up early and hit it with more penetrating oil then impact wrench.. no go... pried the top section of the sending unit out and squirted more penetrating oil in the middle. Waited a half hour and did it again and hit it with the impact tool again no go..

Repeated penetrating oil twice over the next hour... hit it with the impact tool and lo and behold it broke loose finally... I danced around the truck to celebrate.. haha.. cleaned it up in the parts washer and then put it in the bucket with the white vinegar until I get home from working in my store... clean up then install tonight..

It’s Saturday and felt it was time to update the progress this week.

Had one defeat. Could get the retainer pin out of the gas pedal. See pics. Ended up cutting the head of the rod off with my Dremel and removing the old one and putting the new one on. Can it tell there was a major fight there now.

Got the fuel cut off valve in and installed. Good thing too. Later on that.

Got gas tank installed a couple days ago and installed the sending unit last night even though the gauge doesn’t work right. I’ll keep mental track of fuel level. Too much work getting the cluster installed and wired to go back now.

Hooked up fuel lines this morning and put some gas in the carb and it fired up. Yea
The I checked and found the fitting at the fuel pump was leaking pretty good.
Went in the cab and switched the gas off. Walaa it stopped leaking. Pulled the fitting and found the 5/16 fitting was gauled badly. See pic.

Trip to hardware store and nada on the same fitting but found a 5/16 barb whick worked.
Came home and cut the fuel line and installed barbs and hose. Turned fuel back on. No leaks.

Now on to best part of my day. Was pouring gas in carb and it would run for 5 to 20 seconds and die. Each time I’d check the fuel pump glass to see if it was filling up yet. Repeated it a bit and at some point it kept running. It dropped to an idle and sounded like a singer sewing machine.

Turned it off after about 30 seconds since I hadn’t put water in it yet. I did dance around the truck a couple times before going to get the water hose.

See last pic. Got a nice sized hole in a freeze plug. Not going to replace it ATM. Purest will hate it but I’ve got some marine JB weld. Yeah you know what I’m gonna do.

Last note. After it ran for half a minute it died. Did that twice. Going to wait til after I fix water leak to run it again. I’m thinking carb problem butto early to tell.

Sorry for the long post but hope you enjoyed it. Til next time.

Thanks for the pictures. I never think of using my phone to get a picture and better look at the problem.

Doug,

Just a note here to suggest you go check out my reply to your post in The Engine Shop forum on the freeze plug fix.

I think it is a better solution than JB welding that old rusty plug.

Dan

The JB weld worked like a charm. No leak there now.
Now have a drip coming from a lip below and to the front. I’m hoping this is normal and not a cracked block.

May I ask how you stripped and painted the dash? See if I'm doing it the hard way. Yours looks FANTASTIC!!! Just about the same color I want to paint mine. My middle daughter is going to try to make the 'chevrolet' out of vinyl stick-on in turquois to use on mine. Sure would appreciate suggestions.

S2

Stewart, I just used sandpaper starting with 150 then 400.. I wiped it down with denatured alcohol then sprayed it with Rustoleum rust eater.. I'll post a picture of it when I get home.. the dash (whole truck really) was pitted with rust.. after spraying the rust eater I followed up with 400 sandpaper again then the alcohol clean... followed with Rustoleum desert tan I think.. again I'll post a picture to be accurate.. memory doesn't always serve me well..

Did the same treatment to the rear cab area..

If you have a steady hand and keep it moving you can spray can a paint job that looks like a paint shop did it... allow it to cure 24 hours before doing any work around it... it will harden and resist scrapes and scratches after that..

To bring the rest of the work this week up to date I JB welded the cracked block and it is holding up fine..

I've given up on the wiring for the time being.. Got the running lights and headlights working fine.. All the turn signals but the left front work.. can't figure it out so will use hand signals for left turns.

Oh.. still no break lights.. not sure how to test those but plan to at a thread in the electrical forum tonight and ask for some help from the more experienced bolters..

Now only thing keep me from try for a drive around the circle is I have a oil leak at the oil pressure gauge that I can't stop and have yet to ID exactly where its coming from.. but leaking it is.. I'm going to try a new fitting and feral tonight and give it another go..

Forever hopeful everything will hold together.

Thank you, T-Doug, appreciate you getting back to me. Seems like there is no EASY way of getting all the rust and paint gone. At least not one I can afford. As far as the steady hand goes, that's a laugh for me. For some reason I developed essential tremors in my dominate hand about 15 yrs ago. If a paint can needs shaken perfectly, I've got it made. Spray painting with that can.... I'll have that paint ALL over including outside the cab! Anyway, yours is looking really good! Can't wait to see the finished product.

In case you're planning to replace your door windows without refurbishing, I found that Ecklers sells a complete set of door windows with hardware for a little over $300. Don't know if you want to go that route or not.

Also, they seemed to have gotten the already posted pictures corrected, but like the one you posted while the system was down still isn't working. So would you please repost image when they get that part back up?

Thanks again.

S2

Stewart,
Was just able to post pic of the paint.
Thanks for the tip on the windows. I’ll check it out.

Looks like I fixed or reduced to a drop the oil leak at the sending unit. Fired it up and let it run for about ten minutes and looks good. I drained the oil and pulled the filter. That was a mess but it needed it. I’m going back in with Mobile one 10-30 and see how it likes it. Of course nobody had that filter in stock so will have to wait until tomorrow to get it.

Seats I found thru one of the bolters shipped so will be trying my hand at upholstery soon. Should be a study in patience.

Hope everyone is having fun

Ran the engine for 15 minutes this morning and everything went fine. No leaks I could find.

Now I’m a bit upset that the only thing that works in the cluster is the oil pressure gauge.

Engine has a clunkity clunkity knock to it. Thinking maybe a froze lifter. Hmm

Did get some items painted under the hood while all this was going on. Not pro level but good enough for govt work. Test drive coming soon.

Doug,

Just a hopefully helpful comment about your latest picture. Check out where your drain pipe for your cowl vent discharges. Right now if you get any water through there, at least some of it's going to find its way inside your valve cover. Those open breather slots on that particular valve cover are an open door for water to enter your engine and contaminate your innards, real quickly.

Don't ask me how I learned about this problem - haha!

Good progress on your project.

Dan

Interesting. My truck came with a junk engine and rusted through valve cover at the point of the drain pipe. It looked to be the original pipe. Truck might have been sitting in a muddy field possibly since 1974 as that dated plate came with truck. Did GM not consider the problem that kind of configuration could cause?

Joe Dude,

Just a note that I wasn't meaning to start a technical conversation in Doug's Project Journal, just commenting on something he may want to pay attention to on his truck (the Project Journal's are supposed to be about the original posters truck, not general tech conversations).

If you like, post your question in the Engine Shop and folks can discuss that topic further.

As an alternative, we can get your post above moved over to the "Engine Shop" (with a little editing) to start your own conversation there.

Best Regards,

Dan

The journey took a sharp turn.
Have engine running pretty good. Changed oil and filter. Drained and refilled tranny.
So, today I was going to pull out of the garage to clean it up the back right back in.

When I put it in 1st and let out the clutch I got nothing but a less noisy throughout bearing.

Big trouble in little china.

Now will look for some help in the drive train forum.

The Factory Assembly Manual shows it cocked toward the drivers side, enough so the drain clears the valve cover.

STILL CHECK YOUR DRAIN TUBE
If the drain-tube lets water onto the top of your valve cover, your engine will suffer.
My original-length hose allowed water to enter the valve cover.

I have an extension hose that is attached with a male/male plastic hose fitting -- it is long enough to direct that water to the ground.
I take it off at shows (after arrival).

That is a good idea. If nothing else I’ll add enough hose to clear the valve cover or better yet put a clamp in place to hold it nearer to the firewall.

Got the rear drained and the cover off. Got enough metal out for a couple gears along with a gear. See pic. A serious setback but not defeated. Now will have to buy some more tools for this project I’m sure. That and find a video on how to proceed taking it all apart and putting it back together.

Just throwing this out there, but you could always use a later model valve cover with no slots, or plug the slots with J.B.Weld, then use a vented oil fill cap.

Well the rear is locked up and the key bolt stopped on the opposite side of course.. lossened the bearing clamp bolts to see if I could get some play in it to move it around... nada

Going to put it in gear and hit the starter to see if it will move.. if not If guess the next thing would be to drop the torque tube to disengage the u joint to see if it is the pinon that is locked up..

If that doesn't work I think the next step would be to remove the forward end of the differential..

Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful..

Thanks to Hotrod's suggestion I got the carriage to turn all the way to where I can get to the retainer bolt and pin.. Just got call to lunch but will be back at it when thats over..

yea

I'd seriously consider Jerry's offer of a complete drive train swap or at least look for a good rear end that you can just bolt in.

It all came out pretty easy. Now will work on the carrier removal.

So to catch up on progress I’ve got the pumpkin empty now except for the pinion gear. That’s next job.

Had to go get 6 ton jack stands this morning. The 3 ton wouldn't reach the frame... now just need it to cool off.. wishful thinking in Alabama.

Working on getting the ring gear off the housing. Like everything else it’s stuck.

Got the ring gear off and new ring gear came in yesterday. Started cleaning up all the parts for reinstalling and found a hole in the pumpkin.

First picture is hole at 2:00
Second picture shows the light coming through it.

Time to get the JB weld out again. 😁

Fixed the hole and spent all day getting the ring gear back on. The hardware stores didn’t have 3/8 24 bolts so had to use Allen head bolts that said they were 3/8 24 but on trying them they were to big for the housing holes. Soooo Dremel time grinding them down solved the problem.
Off to the hardware store tomorrow to get a torque wrench. I knew I’d need one eventually but had been putting it off because of the $$$ a good one cost.

Doug, check the parts house as soom "rent" them....but not sure if they are good ones. Save your money if you can!!!

I found one at harbor freight that was 1/2 inch drive and had a clicker for $21.
Used it and now the ring gear is on and torqued. Sweaty again. It’s hot in Alabama these days. Will pick up where I left off in the morning.

Don’t have enough hands to keep everything together to get the carrier reinstalled. Is there a method to this. Worked on it for two hours this morning and no progress.

Finally got the carriage in and the side gears. But now the ring gear won’t rotate to get the spider gears in. Just another problem to solve.

Happy days. Figured out how to get the adjustment rings on today.
Ring gear was still locked up so pulled the transmission cover to check out my theory about the forks. Sure enough neither fork was in their slots. They were just floating loose. Got the forks lined up and put the lid back on and put in neutral. Went back under the rear and voila. The ring gear turns smoothly now. Danced a quick jig around the truck.

Next is to get the spider gears installed (later after it cools off). Of course I’ve. Put off cleaning the pumpkin cover so that need’s doing. Then I have to find the gasket. It’s somewhere in one of these boxes. Lol

But I am getting closer to being able to pull it out of the garage one day soon.

Whoop whoop!!😎

Another step closer to first drive. Got the spider gears installed this morning.
But of course I don’t have a gasket for the cover so ordered it and will have to wait for it to get here to close it up. Also had to order a new filler plug. The old one was glued into place.

Next step is get the tranny lid back on. Then wait on parts.

Got tranny gasket on and purmatexed it. Lid is on and tightened down. Now waiting on UPS.

Now I’m thinking I need to get started on the seats. The used frames are in but I don’t have a lot of room to work. So I’m going to clear a table and move it out some to use for a work area. Now need to order the kits. Ugh.

Just got a tube of Gear Marking compound in the mail.. I'm working my shop today but tomorrow we give the ring gear alienment a shot.. If that gets done then the pumkin can be closed up..

Tonight when I get home if its not too hot I plan to clear that table and get one of the seats on it.. the seat cover and stuffing is supposed to deliver today.. Won't know until I get home.. another new project..

Extremely hot here in Alabama the last couple days and it looks like it continues until next week. It’s limited work time some.

But got fluid back in the tranny last night. This morning I got the rear closed up and filled with fluid. Put fill plug in so that’s all ready. Didn’t know it but the fill plug comes with a leather washer.

Now I find out the seat track holes don’t line up on drivers side. After lunch I’ll get the torch out and do a little repair work. Then a shower. It’s 100 degrees outside without the heat index so I’ll call it a day.

Working on figuring out the turn signal wiring also. Redoing the chart and posting it in electrical to get input from some wiser veterans later this afternoon. Inside with AC of course.

Fixed seat track problem last night..
Was going to try and move the truck for the first time this morning and found I had no brakes.. checked master and it was dry.. so have a thread up on what type of fluid to use then I'll have to figure out how to bleed them.. then I can pull it out of the garage then right back in after cleaning the garage up and maybe washing some of the truck off..

But on hold for the moment pending info on brake fluid..

Once you get brake fluid and bleeding complete your next task will be determing where the brake fluid went. I am working on a truck project (not as vintage) for my grandson and finally got the rebuild engine installed and running but like you no brakes. At least two brake lines (one front and one rear) had failed so inprocess of replacing them and then hopefully getting to actually test drive it.

I have brakes now and will look for any leaks. I checked around and didn’t see anything obvious so will keep checking daily for a bit.

But. I did move the truck about six feet back then forward in the garage and brakes work fine. No sponginess at all.

Now need to take another shot at getting the electrical straightened out as relates to the turn signals and brake lights. Then I can install the seat track and frame.

Then the fun begins. Starting the upholstery of the seat and back. Since it’s cooled off to just the 90s now it’s not so hot at night. Low to mid 70s all next week so plan on getting as much done as possible before it heats up again.

Thanks to Bill and Bartamos help I have the electrical fixed.. almost.. turns out the brake switch must be bad.. I shorted it with a screwdriver and brakes came on.. sooo going to order a brake switch but that won't hold up getting started on putting the rest of the interior in.. seat tracks and frame.. then unpack the used seat and back I got from another bolter and then try my hand at upholstery..
More as I go.

In the meantime got the other turn signal feed to the dash feed spliced in so get an indicator for both turns.
Got the heater reinstalled but won’t connect it until later in the fall. Have to order a switch for it too.

Tried to install the driver side seat track but discovered the dip in the flange made the slide lever jam on the side of the riser. So after lunch I’ll get the torch out and my big crowbar and see if I can lift it enough so it clears the riser.

The fun never ends.

Got it sorted with the torch. Seat tracks and frame are in and bolted down.
Now to break out the seat and back.

Almost forgot next is removing the brake switch and testing it.

Got the brake switch out. Was rusted solid. New one ordered today. Now to unpack seats. J

Ended up using some 3/16 coated cable with a turnbuckle to adjust it for the seat adjustment. Works fine

Got the back rest stripped down. Other than a couple springs to reattach it looks good. Now off to hardware store to get a small wire wheel for the drill to finish cleaning it up then paint it.
Then on to the seat to let paint cure.

Progress made on the upholstery front. Seat back is done and in the truck. Yea

May not be perfect but it’s done. Last picture is second layer of cotton going on.

Looking at seat the only thing that needs replacement is the foam. The rest of the padding looks fine. Got it on the table so after a break I’ll see if I get that one finished today.

Next problem. Seat frame is bent at one end. Torch and crowbar should fix it as long as I don’t set it on fire.

Decided to strip off the foam and cotton and put new cotton down.. Had it in the kit and might as well use it.. Pics coming.

Seats are done and today I moved it for the first time. Just out of the garage and back. While I had it out i pressure washed underneath to get all the crude off it.

I also found the source of the klackity klack noise. Noticed by chance that the wiper base was rotating. The darn wiper had been on the whole time making me think I had an engine knock.

So was a good day today

Doug

Looking good!

You seat looks great. Nice job!

First drive today. Yea.

Went around the block twice. Every thing rattles and the clutch is slipping. Looking into how to adjust it now.

Still no gauges work. Not even the speedometer. Lol. Only one working is the oil pressure gauge which if I had a choice that is the one I’d want.

Since it is geared so low I don’t think I’ll worry about speeding. 😁

Doug

What a great feeling taking your first ride. Your story sounds just like my first ride, with all the shaking, rattling, only some of the gauges working and very little brakes, but it was still really exciting. It only improves from here.

Congrats and thanks for sharing!

Doug, since you took your "first drive", you are now likely 98% addicted and going cold turkey is not an option. Congratulations on the progress!

Drove Bart around the block again after adjusting the clutch and it was worse so I adjusted it the other way and will get a chance to drive it tomorrow to see it that was it... if not I'm going to see about a new clutch.. biggest problem will be finding someone that can work on it that I can trust..

Good new was on this last drive the heat gauge started working.. might have had a air pocket back where the sender is.. but its working now so one down and several to go.

Drove Bart around the block again today and clutch is still almost not there soooo.. looks like a heavy project coming up..
I did find a local machine shop that can resurface the flywheel so thats taken care of and was my biggest worry.. just don't have the machine shops around like they used to..

going to think about it but will likely start the clutch job myself.. not looking forward to the heavy weights but will enjoy fixing the problem... then I can move on..

The carb is leaking gas.. just a little but since I've decided to pull the back rest and shift the upholstery around it would be a good time to turn the gas off and fix the carb.. the foam has shifted in the backrest and I had put two layers of cotton in it.. feels like i'm on top of the steering wheel... so going to remove one layer of cotton and maybe move some of the springs around to even it up.. then put it back together and see how it feels.. by then I should have motivated my ambition to start the clutch R&R. Have to buy some new tools I guess..

Doug

Started on the long journey to get a new clutch and pressure plate in. First discovery was oil all over the flywheel cover. That is likely why the slipping.

Drained the transmission. Got the rear cover plate off the tranny to expose the u-joint and stopped. Don’t see how to get to it. I put up a thread in drive chain to get some guidance.

When I figure it out I’ll start again.

Progress. Got the flywheel cover off. Why they used screws is beyond me. Will go back with hex heads. Had to use vice grips to get four of the six screws out. Especially the two under the cross member.

Had surface oil on the cover but flywheel and pressure plate looked dry. We’ll see for sure when they come out.

Drained the trans and got the rear cover off last night. Got bell moved off the U-joint this afternoon and will continue in the morning.

Been working on getting the torque tube down since my last post. Couldn’t get the ujoint to clear the housing. You are supposed to be able to compress the ujoint back into the torque tube to get clearance. It likely hasn’t been moved in 70 years so was stuck. After many days of trying all kinds of suggestions I went back to square one. But first I sprayed blaster into the ujoint spline yesterday, last night and again this morning. Jacked up the rear and put stands on the axles. Using my big crowbar I got some movement first try. About an inch back. What a relief. Eased the jack down and it cleared the housing.

Now have to get the ujoint out of the torque tube then the bell cover off. I’ll jack the tube back up to the floor and have room to pull the trans.

Doug

Doug,

Great job being persistent with working on the 70 yr old drive connection.

Clearly making progress - kudos!

Dan

Got the rear ujoint disassembled with only having to beat on it a little. One side was stuck. Nothing a socket and ball peen hammer didn’t solve.

Got the slide hammer in today and spent about 20 minutes beating on it before I wore out. Used some blaster on it and will return to the fight in the morning.

Had a good day. Thanks to a suggestion from Hotrod I got the rear ujoint off the axle.

Got the tube secured up to the floor so now on to the transmission.

One more step forward.

Doug

Well the garage gods finally smiled on me.
Loosened the trans bolts this morning then had errands all day.
Got home and removed the bolts and the trans came out without a problem. Took about five minutes to get it on the floor.

Stopped there. I’ll roll it off to a small furniture dolly and clean it up tomorrow.

Great job Doug!

Don't forget to cover the big open top of the gear box. Wouldn't want any gremlins to find there way in there and cause havoc later.

Dan

Got the trans out from underneath the truck too heavy to lift for me. Will head to harbor freight and get a small lift to use for the installation.
Cleaned up the ujoint cup with my dremel.

Now to remove the clutch and pressure plate.

Doug

Yeah those tranmissions are really heavy. Best way I have heard to lift for install is using a cherry picker through the access hole in the cab floor.

Clutch and pressure plate are on the floor. Took a couple doses of blaster and they came out.

They didn’t look that bad but they weren’t working

Next to the Dremel the cordless torque wrench is my favorite tool now.
I’ll get to the flywheel next but it will be a couple days.
Anyone know how much the flywheel weighs.

Thanks for all the positive reinforcement along the way.

Doug

Found a 10" clutch kit at O'Reily's and picked it up this morning...It looks exactly like the one I took out... now to get the flywheel off so it can get machined..

Onward.

Doug

I remember when I pulled mine, I had this fear of being stuck under the truck and trying to get it clear of the dowel pins and not getting it teeth side down in my forehead. I chose to lay out some thick carpet under the truck and tap it off with a rubber hammer.

I have the same fears but I'm going to put the jack under it before I try to take it off the pins..

My problem right now is failed in getting the pilot bearing out and wondered if I can remove it after I get the flywheel on the ground..

Never easy is it.

Doug

Got the slide hammer in today and set it up. Hit it about 50 times before I was wore out. Sprayed it with blaster and took a break.

Came back and sprayed it again then using a long socket and my big ball peen hammer hit it a half dozen times.

Broke out the 3/4 nf tap that also came in today and got that started. Took about 10 minutes or so and got the bearing broken loose and out.

To say I was relieved is an understatement.

Cleaned up the area and moving on to the flywheel. Got 2 of the 6 bolts loose and soaked the others with blaster and will give another go after a break.

Doug

Got the last bolt out last night. Thanks to Hotrod for the suggestion to use a wood dowel in the pilot bearing hole for the flywheel when it came loose. Took five minutes with a rubber mallet to ease it off and let it sit overnight because I was tired and didn’t want any mistakes.

This morning I moved the jack under the flywheel and lifted it a bit and took the dowel out. Lowered it to the ground and let it fall on the cardboard I had there.

So it’s off to the machine shop this afternoon.

Have other tasks to get back to while waiting on it to get done. Need to remove the sending unit and replace it with one I tested to be sure it worked. I didn’t have a VOM when I put the first one in. Hope this solves the gas gauge not working problem.

Also found the source of the break fluid leak. Will do that next.

Doug

Picked up the flywheel this morning and it looks good.
Now I need to do other things in the area before I can start reinstalling the drivetrain.

Need to change out the fittings on the brake master cylinder while the area is clear and remove some of the crusted dirt layered on the frame around the trans.

Also need to install a line bracket for the brake line that runs along the frame below the transmission while it is easy to get to.

Doug

I did a check on the speedometer. Had hooked up the drill to the end from the transmission and the speedometer didn’t work. Then a bolter suggested running it in reverse and it worked just fine. That got me to remove the speedometer fitting off the transmission and clean it up.

First thing is that it is all metal. They knew how to make things that lasted back then.

Second thing I noticed was it had a tooth missing. I wonder where that went.

I don’t see an obvious way to take it apart so asking for help again.

Can the whole fitting be ordered?


Doug

Doug,

You may be able to locate a replacement, but need to know some more details to try and help identify the correct original part number for your speedo drive gear.

Needed:

Number of teeth on the driven gear (the piece you have pictured)

Number of teeth on the drive gear (affixed to the transmission output shaft).

You should be able to shine a flashlight in through the hole and get a count of the drive gears teeth without having to tear the transmission down.

Come back and let us know what you have and we can try and help find replacement.

Dan

The speedo gear has 13 teeth.
The transmission gear has 5 teath.

Doug

You really should put the tranny in neutral, jack up at least one rear wheel and have someone turn the wheel by hand slowly while you watch the teeth go by inside the hole on the tranny. If you see any damaged teeth in there, replacing just the driven gear might not fix the problem.

The tranny is sitting on the floor so thats easy to do.. which I already did
There are partially broken teeth on the tranny gear...
I'm worried where the pieces went.. going to flush the tranny after I get it cleaned up and see if I can wash out some pieces..

Doug

Partially broken teeth on the tranny gear really means that gear should be replaced. Mating a replacement speedo gear with a damaged transmission gear will damage the the speedo gear in short order.

Problem is finding one or both. May just not have a working speedometer

Doug

When looking for the gears check with Novak. [novak-adapt.com] They do a lot of SM-420 work, mostly modifying them to fit in older Jeeps which like the SM-420's first gear ratio for rock climbing.

No luck on the speedo gear but did get the flywheel installed last night... now to get the pilot bearing in. Hopefully this afternoon..

Doug

After three tries I got the pilot bearing in straight and down.

Now waiting on a response about torque values for the flywheel and pressure plate.

Doug

Doug,

See this 235 Torque Specs older post reply for torque values for your flywheel and pressure plate.

Dan

I haven't followed/read this entire thread carefully. (I apologize)

However, here are some torque specs that might be helpful. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]

Feel free to delete this post if it is redundant and/or not useful.

Unfortunately, that only covers assembling the pressure plate to the clutch cover assembly, and not the cover to flywheel bolts. Not even on the next page.

Got the clutch and pressure plate installed.
Then put in the clutch fork and throw out bearing in place.
Now have to figure out how to get the trans on the floor jack to get it up and in place.

Doug

If you have an engine lift, you can lift the tranny up tru the removed transmission floor cover, using rope. Easy peasy!

Don't forget to install headless guide bolts to help align the transmission as you are guiding the input shaft through the clutch into the pilot bearing.