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Doug,

Just a note here to suggest you go check out my reply to your post in The Engine Shop forum on the freeze plug fix.

I think it is a better solution than JB welding that old rusty plug.

Dan

The JB weld worked like a charm. No leak there now.
Now have a drip coming from a lip below and to the front. I’m hoping this is normal and not a cracked block.

May I ask how you stripped and painted the dash? See if I'm doing it the hard way. Yours looks FANTASTIC!!! Just about the same color I want to paint mine. My middle daughter is going to try to make the 'chevrolet' out of vinyl stick-on in turquois to use on mine. Sure would appreciate suggestions.

S2

Stewart, I just used sandpaper starting with 150 then 400.. I wiped it down with denatured alcohol then sprayed it with Rustoleum rust eater.. I'll post a picture of it when I get home.. the dash (whole truck really) was pitted with rust.. after spraying the rust eater I followed up with 400 sandpaper again then the alcohol clean... followed with Rustoleum desert tan I think.. again I'll post a picture to be accurate.. memory doesn't always serve me well..

Did the same treatment to the rear cab area..

If you have a steady hand and keep it moving you can spray can a paint job that looks like a paint shop did it... allow it to cure 24 hours before doing any work around it... it will harden and resist scrapes and scratches after that..

To bring the rest of the work this week up to date I JB welded the cracked block and it is holding up fine..

I've given up on the wiring for the time being.. Got the running lights and headlights working fine.. All the turn signals but the left front work.. can't figure it out so will use hand signals for left turns.

Oh.. still no break lights.. not sure how to test those but plan to at a thread in the electrical forum tonight and ask for some help from the more experienced bolters..

Now only thing keep me from try for a drive around the circle is I have a oil leak at the oil pressure gauge that I can't stop and have yet to ID exactly where its coming from.. but leaking it is.. I'm going to try a new fitting and feral tonight and give it another go..

Forever hopeful everything will hold together.

Thank you, T-Doug, appreciate you getting back to me. Seems like there is no EASY way of getting all the rust and paint gone. At least not one I can afford. As far as the steady hand goes, that's a laugh for me. For some reason I developed essential tremors in my dominate hand about 15 yrs ago. If a paint can needs shaken perfectly, I've got it made. Spray painting with that can.... I'll have that paint ALL over including outside the cab! Anyway, yours is looking really good! Can't wait to see the finished product.

In case you're planning to replace your door windows without refurbishing, I found that Ecklers sells a complete set of door windows with hardware for a little over $300. Don't know if you want to go that route or not.

Also, they seemed to have gotten the already posted pictures corrected, but like the one you posted while the system was down still isn't working. So would you please repost image when they get that part back up?

Thanks again.

S2

Stewart,
Was just able to post pic of the paint.
Thanks for the tip on the windows. I’ll check it out.

Looks like I fixed or reduced to a drop the oil leak at the sending unit. Fired it up and let it run for about ten minutes and looks good. I drained the oil and pulled the filter. That was a mess but it needed it. I’m going back in with Mobile one 10-30 and see how it likes it. Of course nobody had that filter in stock so will have to wait until tomorrow to get it.

Seats I found thru one of the bolters shipped so will be trying my hand at upholstery soon. Should be a study in patience.

Hope everyone is having fun

Ran the engine for 15 minutes this morning and everything went fine. No leaks I could find.

Now I’m a bit upset that the only thing that works in the cluster is the oil pressure gauge.

Engine has a clunkity clunkity knock to it. Thinking maybe a froze lifter. Hmm

Did get some items painted under the hood while all this was going on. Not pro level but good enough for govt work. Test drive coming soon.

Doug,

Just a hopefully helpful comment about your latest picture. Check out where your drain pipe for your cowl vent discharges. Right now if you get any water through there, at least some of it's going to find its way inside your valve cover. Those open breather slots on that particular valve cover are an open door for water to enter your engine and contaminate your innards, real quickly.

Don't ask me how I learned about this problem - haha!

Good progress on your project.

Dan