Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Window Regulator Broken

So the window regulator seperated in the door as in the the large tooth 1/4 wheel and the arm came off the crank handle metal.
This is a newer model as in 6 years old for a 1956 chevy truck.
My question is what is the Pivot pin/bolt/rivit that holds that tooth gear on to mount for crank that bolts to door.
I would rather just replace a bolt (fingers crossed) than have to tear down the whole door as you guys all know.

Anyone with good pictures or ideas?
Again not stock newer replacement manual model (dorman if I recall)
Its all by feel at moment since its still in the door.

Thanks

hcb3200,

Just a note here that I have moved your post over to The Paint and Body Shop - Doors sub-forum as the best place to have the discussion on the repair of your window regulator.

AM sure others will be along here shortly who can try and help answer your questions.

Dan

hcb3200,

Attached below is a pic of a "Dorman" replacement window regulator for your '56.

I am guessing you are referring to the center arm pivot "rivet" as being the failed part on yours???

It may be possible to replace that rivet with a thin head machine screw and nut, but unless you can find one with a shallow shoulder to ride in the arm holes, the threads on the screw will tend to chew up the hole rather quickly. Screw length must be as short as possible too so it can prevent possible interference between parts when the regulator is operated.

If you choose this path, the nut should be a self-locking style (to prevent backing off the screw from movement or vibration) or you would need to use a thread locker to keep it together.

All this being said, it may be less fuss and muss to just replace the regulator???

Am interested to hear what you decided to do and/or use to fix the problem.

Dan

Yea thats the black one. I have the golden metal one and it has a different "rivit" . Plan on getting the scope in there this weekend.
If its like one I finaly found online it may be a shoulder bolt with a hex on other side.
If not thats whats it getting when I determine its all coming out.
My guess is that I will need to follow a rule told me years ago. Fix it right or fix it over and over and over and over.

Will advise with pictures what I determine.

I haven't seen that type of regulator, as I have a '51 with the single arm style. But I'll bet it uses a semi-tubular shoulder rivet at that pivot point. I've been able to buy those from Hanson Rivet in LA, but last time I called, they told me they wouldn't sell to me directly and I had to go thru Grainger to get their products. I used similar rivets to repair the pivots for the center cowl vent, and they worked well. Here's a link to Hanson's shoulder rivet page. Link [hansonrivet.com]

Pulled regulator out of door.
As you can see it has two hole sizes where a shoulder rivet would have been.
I found shoulder bolt that would work at Grainger but it was way way to long.
So went with the 3.48 cent repair. Since its inside door looks did not matter.
Drilled smaller hole to same size as larger hole.
Bought a longer bolt than needed to get the smooth shaft portion.
Sandwiched it all together with white lithium grease.
zipped on the nylon nut till snug then backed it off a little.
Used a cuttoff wheel to zip of the threads sticking out.
Then put it all back in. Works like a charm. And it goes up and down smooth since i got the chance to grease it all up good.
Attached Images

Nice solution with the write-up and pictures.

Thanks for coming back and letting us know how it turned out. Can be useful info for others running into the same problem.

Dan