Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Buffing single stage paint

On Acrylic Enamel there is some of that. I know that I can buy different gloss levels of ALK-200 without using the hardner. I use their satin for the frame. On two part epoxy style paints many refer the catalyst as the hardner but it's actually serves a different purpose. The catalyst binds the molecular chains of the first part to form the paint we all know and love. I believe on Acrylic Enamel the hardner moves it way to the surface to give it a hard surface. I'm also told that it will harden by itself if left for a while.

Mike

I sprayed Acrylic Enamel in a body shop back in the early seventies and we did not add any hardener. We used heat lamps initially to aid in drying. It took several weeks before the paint was hard enough to buff them out. Most jobs went out the door without buffing as the paint laid out really nicely and unlike lacquer didn’t require buffing. I don’t remember if hardener was even available, but I may be mistaken.

Why don't we put the speculation to rest? Attached is the Tech Data Sheet for ALK-200.

The top of page 2 shows hardness with and without ALK-201 (which is a polyurethane enhancer, and does contain isocyanate ingredients). Straight ALK-200 CAN be softer than with ALK-201, but can also be the same hardness. The Pencil hardness scale goes HB, F, H from softer to harder. Also note that chip resistance can be better WITHOUT ALK-201, and glossiness is only slightly improved with ALK-201.
At the bottom of page 2 shows that the paint can be flattened by the addition of a flattening agent, which is different than ALK-201.
Another item is that the time for the paint to fully dry is 7 days with or without additive.

One issue with using ALK-201 is that the container says that it has to be used completely within 14 days of opening, as it's moisture activated. That means that a 1/2 pint container will treat a gallon of paint at the 15:1 mix ratio. So if you buy a quart of ALK-201 (most readily available), you'll waste most of it unless you're doing multiple paint jobs.

So to answer the OP's question, you'd need to wait at least 7 days before attempting to wet sand or buff that particular Alkyd Enamel. Like Phil says, it lays down very nicely. If you have orange peel, you're either using too large a tip on your paint gun or have the adjustments completely wrong. I found it to be very easy to paint with. I've used a 1.3 tip with very good results.

Nicely put.

Mike

I used the dealer supplied catalyst. No gummy deposits while wet sanding. That part of operation went really well. Buffing seems to be an aquired skill . I 'm not seeing any sand scratches, just buffing swirls with less than good shine.

Thanks. I'll look into the swirl mark remover. Good advice regards the hard edges. Also, the paint on the back of the cab is a yr old now. I think I'll work on my buffing skills on the back or parts that will be hidden with bed installed.

I want your paint job ! Question: Is your single stage acrylic or one of the other enamels ?

I started using acrylic enamel in the 70's as well. (I had shot plenty of alkyd up to that point) As time went on I started using the hardner & always began shooting with one coat of non sanding primer/sealer just prior to the acrylic paint, with good results.

However, it's been 20 years since my last overall acrylic enamel paint job and I seem to be a little rusty now. I'm 77 now & not looking to go back to painting trucks or anything else. Just looking to make my C10 look a little better.

I've done a little color/clear 2 stage with good results too. Usually just replacing the factory peeling clear coat on one of my vehicles or helping out a grandkid with a fender bender & no money to pay an insurance deductible. Good results meaning no buffing of the clear coat needed.

Thanks for all the replys everyone. Much appreciated.

Thank you! It's just a basic single stage enamel.