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#1500846 Mon May 15 2023 02:00 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 669
M
'Bolter
I'm ready to attempt installation of my inner fenders today, 1953 half ton. The attachment at the rear is self explanatory on the driver's side, where they bolt to the captive threads in the bracket. But, there's no such bracket on the passenger side. So, I'm just assuming that I need to drill holes in the cab floor / kick panel and bolt the rear of the inner fender to the floor. Is this correct? If not, any info or advice would be appreciated. Will I likely need to make some spacers for this attachment?


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,342
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Mike, there should be captive nuts in passenger side inner fender. Three bolts (5/16-18 x 3/4' ) fasten from the inside through the floor pan to the inner fender. If its not clear or you need more info.....PM me and we can discuss.

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Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 669
M
'Bolter
Thanks, It's plenty clear, and I appreciate it. It would have been simple to figure out if my inner actually had the captive nuts. All of the nuts are gone on mine. All I have are holes in the flange. Once I have it in place I'll tack weld some nuts in place and it will be fine. Thanks for your help.


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,036
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
If you don't feel like breaking out the welder, Nutserts will also work.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 8,037
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by MNSmith
If you don't feel like breaking out the welder, Nutserts will also work.
When the weld nuts come off, they usually leave a big square hole. Nutserts probably wouldn't fit in there. I had some loose and missing nuts on my inner fender and welded in replacements before painting them. I got flat style weld nuts instead of the crimp-in originals.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 669
M
'Bolter
I just came in from my shop. I went out to take another look at the inner fender in question. On closer examination, it's obvious that my mounting flange (where the captive nuts should be) is not original. It's replacement metal, probably because the original rusted away. All of the sheet metal was pretty bad when I started on this truck, but the inner fenders were the worst of all. The previous owner, or someone, has welded patches in numerous places, but mostly at the points of attachment. They drilled new mounting holes in the patched areas, but sadly, most of the new holes are not exactly correct. So I've had to spend more time straightening these out than I had hoped. Maybe I should have bought new ones, but I've been so disappointed with fitment of replacement sheet metal pieces that I just decided to make these work. The holes in new ones probably wouldn't have been right either. In any case, this is my last issue with the inner fenders, so now that I know what I've got to do, I'll get to work on it and get r done. Thanks to all of you who replied.


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,036
G
Insomniac
You just need a helper with a wrench to stop the bolt from turning while you tighten the nut. If you don't have a helper, put a box end wrench on the bolt head, other end against the cab wall. Use a welding magnet to hold the wrench in place if required.


Gord
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 8,037
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by Mike Burns
On closer examination, it's obvious that my mounting flange (where the captive nuts should be) is not original. It's replacement metal, probably because the original rusted away. All of the sheet metal was pretty bad when I started on this truck, but the inner fenders were the worst of all.
So those square holes were basically random shaped and BIG!! Pretty typical. frown
Since you have new metal there, you're free to fasten that inner fender to the floor any way you'd like. thumbs_up


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,720
5
Renaissance Man
You don't need to weld on nuts or use nutserts for your passenger side inner fender. They were originally designed with captive nuts for speedy assembly line installation.
Simple nuts and bolts will work. An extra set of hands would be nice.

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 669
M
'Bolter
Yes, understood. It's just a matter of getting it positioned correctly. Not only are there no holes in the flange of the inner fender. There are also no holes in the floor. Since it appears to me that the positioning of the inner fenders pretty much determines the position of the main outer fenders, I'm mostly just concerned about mounting them in the right position. If all of the holes and captive nuts were in place, it would be difficult to install it wrong. Unfortunately, that's not the case. I guess a little trial and error will get it done. Any pics that you guys think might be helpful would be appreciated.
Love this site.
Mike


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
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