John, Dean sent me a link to your thread. Looks like you have a pretty good project going there. I have a 28LO I am working on. Real basket case when I started. Two years in now and it actually is starting to look like a truck. I'll try to stay following along. I was going to chime in earlier to help with questions, but it seems like Dean has most of your questions answered.
Sounds like you have a pretty good amount of extra parts and I am actually looking for a few items yet. Any group pictures of what you may have extra that I can run my eyes over? A couple things I could use are door latches, and looking for good trim pieces that go around the gauges. A dash light and rearview mirror. My seat frames are garbage, but if you'd have those shipping would be ugly. I'm sure there are other odds and ends, but that's what comes to mind in the moment.
Going to be a nice adder to your collection. Keep up the good work! David
I'm still cataloging what I have. I *do* have extra gauge bezels... not sure if they are "good" though. I'll be back over there tomorrow and I'll take a look. Not sure about the dash light and a "no" on the mirror and seat frame. Are you talking about the base that covers the fuel tank? or the actual seat parts themselves?
I have an extra door latch (the cab side) but I'm not sure it's any good. It still has the vertical cab shell piece attached to it.
A couple of things I need ...
Headlight lenses and trim rings Windshield upper part hardware
Question:
What do the trim pieces look like that cover the seams between the cab sheet metal parts?
Nice to meet you! Got pics of your project?
John
"If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went." Will Rogers
John, I may have a 27 headlight trim ring. I will have to see what kind of shape it's in. They can be carefully straightened and polished up nice. I have the 28 rings and got one of mine to turn out good, but the other I think I will need to replace. Gary Wallace has the lenses and gaskets in reproduction. If I recall the lenses are $25 each and the gasket set is $15. I have no hardware for the upper windshield. I was going to private message you on the other items and for pictures, but I guess I am not a high enough level member to do that (so it told me anyway) so if you want to send me your email maybe you can PM me? I will get a picture of the trim piece for the seam. It is basically a rolled sheet metal 'C' channel with screw holes in it. David
John is over at the garage taking pictures and what not on the '27 (Calvin). Got an "o no" text a little while ago. I'm sure he'll have some to report when he gets back.
Peggy M “After all, tomorrow is another day!”—Margaret Mitchell, Gone with the Wind Share knowledge and communicate it effectively. ~ Elihu
And "oh no" is right. As I was rigging the engine to go onto the engine stand (to flip it over and inspect the lower end), I discovered that the ring gear had not been installed on the flywheel ... Hmmm.
So ... even more emphasis on what Dean has suggested about inspecting everything. If whoever rebuilt this engine neglected to install the ring gear on the flywheel before installing the flywheel and clutch assembly ....
.... what else have they neglected to do?
So I installed the engine in the frame anyway as it clears up some floor space and it will make it easier (for me ... Jerry and I had a "conversation" about this earlier...) to deal with the flywheel rather than having to kneel down to floor level or wrestle the flywheel out from between the engine and the engine stand mount.
I had also thought the engine was locked up. Turns out it isn't. Yay.
So ... next step is to get the pressure plate and clutch assembly off the flywheel, and then remove the flywheel so I can install the ring gear. Which, as it turns out, I have. Hanging on the wall ...
Also ... today I discovered that some of these parts came from a hearse. Hmmmm.
John
"If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went." Will Rogers
I suggest that you make sure the flywheel is orientated properly (with respect to the crankshaft) before you take it off. There is no 'pin' that orients the flywheel correctly to the crankshaft. You want to make sure the timing marks are in the proper place. The flywheel can bolt on in six different positions.
Turn the engine via the hand crank until you have cylinder one at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Watch the valves to determine when that cylinder is on the compression stroke. You can stick a wood dowel in the spark plug hole to feel when the piston reaches its top position.
When cylinder one is at TDC, check to see that the U|C mark on the flywheel is showing in the inspection window in the cast iron flywheel housing. There should be a pointer in the middle of the window.
If the U|C mark is at the needle, the flywheel is in the correct position. ;-) If this is the case, make some punch marks on the end of the crankshaft and on the flywheel so when you take it off, you know where to line up those marks when you put it back.
If the U|C is not in the window, you can paint a line on the flywheel and then disregard the casting mark or take the flywheel off and move it around until it is oriented correctly.
Using the hand crank would eliminate the need for even installing the ring gear John. If you can't do it maybe Peggy???
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/13 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
