Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop 216 Rebuild

I have pulled the pan on my 41 AK w/216 and the engine needs to be rebuilt . Any "sage" advice or suggestions ?

Find someone who knows how to aim the spray nozzles in the oil pan when the engine is reassembled. That's critical to the connecting rods staying put because the troughs in the oil pan only lube the rods at idle. Aluminum pistons for a 235 will work with a .060" overbore, and you'll get better acceleration and less rod bearing wear than with the original cast iron pistons. It's also possible to machine the rods out for removable bearings instead of running the Babbit-lined rods. Those bearings are getting scarce, but a rod bearing for a 3 cylinder Perkins Diesel engine will work if you regrind the crankshaft to the right diameter. Good luck!
Jerry

ronsway That is a tough build even for seasoned mechanics because it is so hard to find the parts ,bore and crank work is crtical to a lasting build plus if you haven't had hands-on experience with old fashioned ways you just have to go to bolters. It's hard to explain it to you. I haven't had to deal with a shimmed rod since 1982,has run and done hard work all that time (wood hauler) still just fine. Have 2 a 216 and 235 48 2-ton. Now once it's fixed you'll swell with pride !!

New update on my 216: We pulled the engine and the oil pickup tube is cracked, one of the soft plugs is corroded out and the block is full of debris to the head, crank is scored and machine shop said that they didn't think the block is useable. I am going to take it to them on Tues to verify condition.
Also the transmission is junk and the rear end needs to be completely rebuilt.
A friend says he has a 235 w/bell housing and clutch (it needs to be rebuilt) available.
What is involved to convert to the 235? Is there a reference for the conversion?
What about transmission, drive line and rear end conversions?

I speak "machinist"- - - - -they're going to tell you it's "junk" which translates to "Even if it was in brand new condition, we don't know how to work on it!"

Depending on the year, the 235 might be a drop-in swap, or there might be some issues with the position of the water pump and fan. The simplest 235 swap will be a 1954 or early 55 engine. In mid-year 55, they dropped the fan and water pump down on the block about 3 inches for hood clearance, which puts the fan too low on the earlier trucks. There is a conversion plate available to reposition the pump to the higher position when installing a late model engine in an early chassis.
Jerry

ronsway,

Just a note that you should start a new post in the Driveline forum to discuss your question "What about transmission, drive line and rear end conversions?".

You can refer folks back to this conversation so they know you are considering a 235 swap to go along with upgrading/converting the rest of the driveline to match.

Doing that will help folks provide better on-topic answers and suggestions to help you manage your way through this.

Dan

Replacing a 216 with a 235, is almost a bolt in replacement. No need to replace any of the drivetrain as the 235 uses the same bell housing. You can even use the same flywheel and clutch as long as you use the 6V starter. No issues using the 6V starter on a 12V system as I’ve been doing it for 4 years.

If you get a later model 235 (late 55 thru 62) as Jerry pointed out, the fan will be too low to effectively cool the engine. A fellow bolter “Pre 68 Dave”, invented and sells an adapter plate to relocate the original 216 water to its original position . I bought and installed this plate on my ‘59 235. The installation was fairly easy and it works perfectly.

If your interested, you can PM “Pre 68 Dave” thru Stovebolt.

I emailed Pre68Dave and he is not listed as a user. Do I have the name wrong if not is there an alternative source or way to contact him?

Thanks I just emailed him.

ronsway,

Dave's actual screen name is: Pre '68 Dave. Try a PM for him as Phak1 suggested.