I bought this reproduction ignition switch from a vendor for my 1965 Chevy C10 and it has all of this other stuff in the bag, which my old installed one did not when I got the truck, many years ago.
Therefore, I am curious as to what these other pieces are for?
Gearhead, Moderator for The Swap Meet and General Truck Talk
Woogeroo,
A little web searching turned up the below picture which should help with the details on how to install your repro switch.
These repro's are used in the majority of GM products of the mid '60s vintage and the kit contains a "lamp holder" (copper bit) that probably wouldn't have been original to your C10.
The pic does kind of give you an idea of the assembly sequence so you can get it into your dash. Just need to top it off on the outer side of the dash with your original "bezel ring".
Hope this is helpful?
Dan
Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 (My Grandpa's hunting truck) 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Finally time to get to work on my Grandpa's (now mine) truck!
I took the old switch out enough times, just wondered if these new bits have been missing all this time.
It has a lot more thread on there than I need for my dash... Sticking out past the bezel, so I was wondering if I was missing something or not putting it in right with these extra bits.
I made up my own spacer to make it flush on the dash.
Thanks for the reply.
Last edited by Woogeroo; Fri Jul 28 2023 09:22 PM. Reason: Grammar
Gearhead, Moderator for The Swap Meet and General Truck Talk
Glad it was a little helpful!
FWIW should others read this info, the weird nut goes on the threads first (flat side facing away from the switch) followed by the spacer washer with the tab stuck in the groove of the threaded housing, then switch get slide into dash panel from back side. Once in the dash, see how much the exposed "bezel" thread is and adjust the inner nut to reduce or extend the number of exposed threads to be just less than the depth of the "bezel" nut. Finally, install the "bezel" nut to lock it all into place.
Done this way, there isn't a need for an added spacer. Glad your solution worked out just fine!
Dan
Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 (My Grandpa's hunting truck) 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Finally time to get to work on my Grandpa's (now mine) truck!