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Fixing the old truck

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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 26,997
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Even before all the sheet metal started getting stamped out overseas by teenaged slave laborers, the body man's friend was an oversized hole and a "fender washer". Fortunately, it's impossible to see both sides of the vehicle at the same time, so short of doing major reconstruction of the panels, "If it looks good, it is good". Body work has never been an exact science, but now with the poor quality parts seem to be the rule, rather than the exception. Just do the best you can- - - -which is a sad commentary on the stare of the repop sheet metal that's available these days.
Jerry


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Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller
I can get the ledt side same as the right by elongation holes. Just don't know which lines are more important. I think it needs to be flush on top. Just need some confirmation.

The importing things are the fitment of the doors and hood so they close and latch properly. Everything else is just cosmetic and what your willing to live with. You may have to reshape some of the pieces to get them to fit better. As HRL has already pointed out, the repop sheetmetal is not very good.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: 12v w/alternator, HEI & PCV
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Posts: 890
F
'Bolter
Lugnuts sent me a pic of the front. Looks like I need to get the top of the fender even with the grill support and the rest of the lines are hidden by the grill that does not mate up well with the support. More elongating holes to get it good.


1966 C-10 Step Side
A Project Journal
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 890
F
'Bolter
So I figured out a fix. Decent or not I don't know.

I needed up elongating about every hole between the fenders and the grill support but I got the top edges even which are the most important I think.

I tried shimming the door but I didn't like what it did to the rest of the door fitment.

So to fix the problem I had which was the right fender was too fat out even though it was tight against the cab, I removed the fender and took a 10lb hammer and beat the mounting area in about 3/8 of an inch. I figured if I went too far I could shim it out but it ended up perfect.

Will have to remove to get things into primer, but one last time together and I will have it i think.

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1966 C-10 Step Side
A Project Journal
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Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
I've been following this post and it looks like you've did a good job of solving the fitment issues.


Ron - - Dusty53
"you can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell"
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1954 Chevy 3604
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Joined: May 2006
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T
'Bolter
I’ll tell ya, Ferris, these tasks require at times hours of thought, a lot of back and forth, sleeping on it, and study. But sometimes in the end, the old BFH tends to make quick work for many dilemmas. Looks good, man! Keep going.

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Looks like your persistence has payed off. Great work!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: 12v w/alternator, HEI & PCV
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