After a number of years (too many) being neglected sitting outside (well at least it was in California) I've been resurrecting my 51. Got it running well, new radiator, Fuel Tank and sender and then it was pretty much just clean up the carb, oil change & start her up! Currently have new custom seat covers being made on the stock benches - I'm really excited to get those in about 10 days. So in the meantime, I'm now onto restoring the paint - I'm one of those guys who likes the Patina, in fact wouldn't mind if mine had more! There is almost no rust damage on the whole truck, except the passenger door (for which I have an original 51 replacement that is excellent!) and around the cowl vent, that will need a little work
As you can see below I have started compounding/polishing it and almost can't believe how well it's coming out. I initially wet-sanded most of it with the 1000/1500 and then hit with the polisher. I think it was repainted in the 70's and whatever they used is extremely thick and is polishing amazingly well, without swirls, even off the rotary with a wool pad. So the parts that are not going to be full gloss (as per the drivers door and the fender side example below) will be the front fender tops, the hood and the roof. The roof unfortunately is not the brown under, like the fenders and hood, but the exposed primer is grey; I'm torn over hitting it with some brown and feathering it, or just leave as it is. I'll make a decision on that after it's polished
You can see what I was starting with (with the partially done fender) and what I have done so far
So the question, and reason for this thread, is after I've done compouding it, what to put over it? I was looking at Poppy's Patina and that initially had my interest, but then after I read some more, found it is actually a hard coating after it's dry and would need to be sanded to remove. It's really a wipe-on (or spray) urethane type finish as opposed to a polymer type of coating Not crazy about that idea.
Wanted to air out this idea for feedback: I did some gel repairs on my boat last year and I went with a Ceramic coating over the entire hull, once it was all polished. The boat is going to see MUCH harsher conditions than the truck ever will but I liked the product and its application, and the longevity of it. So I'm actually thinking about going that route on the Truck - as long as it bonds it should be good I think.
Thoughts? Other suggestions?
'51 Chevy 3100 Truck - OEM 216 Engine; three speed column shift transmission 6 Bolt disc conversion with dual master/vacuum booster 12V alternator conversion. 235 engine in waiting
Personally I think clear coating (or similar process) over a "patina" is ridiculous. It looks stupid and fake.
Leave it alone. Clean it and shine it as best you can, wax it if you feel like it, and be done with it. The truck is now in the garage and being taken care of. Let it age naturally.
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) 1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe 1979 Ford F-100 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
If there is rust or bare metal involved I would use a 2K clear, it can be got in gloss or satin or ? And I know someone that painted wheels with rustoleum and used 2k over it, my suggestion. Rustoleum is a much better paint than a water based paint anyday, and water base is sprayed on with no hardener at all, so I'd rather any cheap oil base over water colors anyday. If the water crap paint is not super dry just one freeze and it blisters under the clear. And its adhesion is questionable period. It seems to come off newer vehicles nicely.
Last edited by Truckrolet; Sun May 07 2023 12:28 AM.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
As an addendum, I attended a small local car show yesterday. My personal favorite was a ‘55 Chevy 4 door station wagon, 2 tone white over red in what I believe was original paint. Nice wear , some primer showing through, obviously not a Wisconsin rust bucket. When I got close to that ‘55 it became obvious that a gloss clear coat had been applied to preserve that lovely aged finish. Unfortunately it looked , to my eye , like a candy apple.
Gloss over patina just doesn’t work for me.
Age 68 is not too late to start hot rodding , right?
“Bowled” Linseed Oil and a generous amount of WD40.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
There are some you tube videos for home brew wipe on oils. Boiled linseed oil, mixed with baby oil, and mineral spirits was popular a couple years ago.
I used a product called Sweet Patina - wipe-on. It worked but a couple months later - back to faded glory. That seems to be the case with these oil type patina rubs.
Each has its own strengths and weaknesses.
Last edited by tom moore; Tue May 16 2023 12:09 AM.