Stovebolt.com Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks gauge question

I have a 64 1/2 ton 230 3 on the tree . I took out my dash with the idiot lights and replaced it with a later model that has the gauge package . The harnesses matched up fine to the engine bay harness but i cant seem to get the d c gauge to work the truck came with an alternator but originally had a generator w/idiot light but the needle on the (brand new ) gauge doesnt move . Theres only 2 terminals for the gauge + and - . Also another thing happened was that i was getting a low voltage message (through my stereo) so i changed out my alternator to a newer one still the gauge dont work , could it be the voltage regulator giving me all the greif ? If anyone could supply me with a schematic to get the gauge working i would appreciate it thanks

I recall I had the same(ish) problem when making the same switch. There is something different in the harness between the idiot lites and guages - some resistance/resistor in the wiring harness. I do not recall specifically and I cant remember what made it all work. It was something fairly easy since I am not all that proficient with this sort of thing.
I mention to reinforce, this may be something usual in making the switch and to move the thread to the top so Bartamos can see it.

thanks hambone hopefully bartamos will catch it .

Hi Mike. I need some info.
1. Alternator part number and vendor.
2. Does the new cluster have an ammeter or volt meter? need pic of gauge face if you don't know. Ammeter, when off, has needle straight up. Volt meter when off has needle pegged CCW.
3. What year is the new cluster?
4. Any other add-on's besides stereo? Any new wiring "projects"/upgrades/rewire?

So assuming you have a separate voltage regulator, more or less stock wiring and an ammeter..............assuming alternator is wired properly to regulator and etc.

1. Black Wire from ammeter pos to 6 pin connector. Thru connector to starter solenoid "B" (battery) terminal.
2. BLK with WHT stripe wire from ammeter neg to 9 pin connector. Thru connector to horn relay Battery terminal/screw. The horn relay does double duty as a power distribution point/junction block, whatever you want to call it.

Not sure about original wire colors since you are switching clusters, and not sure if they have been changed by PO, so wire per above regardless if colors match.

If no change in issue after answering questions and wiring per above, we will begin trouble shooting if you wish.

Hi bartomos , sorry for late reply i havent been getting notifications by email anymore , the truck came with the alternator which was a delco remy , that i thought went bad so i replaced it with a powermaster 17102 gm 10dn it was chrome but the only one i could find at that time that was in stock , the DC meter on the cluster is pointing straight up i do not know what year it came from . The reason i replaced the alt was due to the low voltage message that my stereo displayed and after checking it was only putting out 12 volts , i replaced with the new one and got 12 volts again , i unplugged the dash harness and plugged it back in and then i started getting 14 v from the alternator , but after driving it for awhile the low voltage message came up again . So i assume the issue may be with the harness itself due to the different wiring ? Or did my regulator go bad ? I did reverse wire my blinker flasher due to adding led directionals but had no issues till i replaced the dash . thanks for your help

OK, two issues. Gauge does not work and something wrong with charging system.
Charging:
1. Don't buy any more alternators unless internally regulated.
2. Clean the battery posts and the cable clamps. Check cables all the way to other ends. Inspect and clean terminations at starter and at ground point. Be sure this chrome alt is grounded to it's brackets and the bracket are grounded. No paint or rust or grease or corrosion on any ground points anywhere. The regulator also needs to have a good ground.
3. Test voltage regulator per Jerry. I don't get into that because I recommend internally regulated ALT. (Delco 10si)
4. How are you specifically testing the alternator output? Tell me how, where and when. If I tell folks how to do things, they say "yeah, that's how I did it".

Ammeter Gauge:
1. Is gauge wired per my post above? Exactly or not? The ammeter gauge wiring is different than the indicator light style, so you say the harness "matched up fine". That just means the connectors pugged in "just fine". BUT the connectors are wired differently with different colors and wires in/out of them go to different places. So check per my post...carefully...with neg battery cable disconnected. Follow wires visually or do continuity tests with both ends of tested wires diconnected from any components. This is to confirm that ammeter is wired correctly. Report findings all around.
2. Does gauge needle jump or move at all when key goes on? or while starting?
3. Does it move any when headlights go on?
4. It does sound like an ammeter. That is what Chevy used in the needle gauge clusters.
5. Is your voltage regulator marked F 2 3 4

These two issues may or may not be related. Be sure ALL the wires discussed here are checked for attachment/terminal tighness, corrosion and general condition.
Be very specific on all your answers.
Check your post more often

thanks bartomos will get on it this week and get back to you