Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop Engine Won't Start - What Now

Not the OP.

My bad. I did not notice that the post which I read was from a random interloper.

Random interlopers do have a place, Carl. Not that I have unconscious biases, but I do prefer systematic and methodical interlopers too.

I do hope that the solution to the No start issue is posted here.

dgrinnen Your instructions are right on the money,have helped others to "get one running " that way even over the phone. They were sure proud of there work too !!

I am certain that I have done more than my share of "random interloping" on numerous threads over the years. I meant no offence to the current interloper on this thread. Actually it was more like I was obfuscating my responsibility to pay attention to who was posting what, and attempted to pawn it off onto someone else who was guilty of nothing that I haven't done many times myself.
I am now going to stand, facing a corner, and think about what I have done.

52 carl Well said Carl... I too have "stepped in it" (and been called down for it) I sometimes almost fall out of my chair when others get their "cheeks"chapped from stuff said on stovebolt. I guess that's why I come here every day!! Cheeks are in fare shape at this time !! Now those Harley girls with those chaps that got no protection back there...don't know about them hmmm !!

Yes, Carl. An innocent story or comment can become quite a conflagration and public flogging. I’ll never measure up, I guess.

Nonetheless, fixing old engines, and finding solutions to these old trucks is much, much better.

I returned from a 6 month self imposed exile - the old cheeks got a good whooping awhile ago.

Back to the elbow grease and let’s see if this starting issue gets resolved.

Many of us have said this many times in the past, in many ways. But this is the best, short, complete statement anyone can initially make to someone with "crank but no fire".

"All internal combustion engines need the same things to run- - -

Fuel
Air
Spark
Compression
Valve timing
Ignition timing

Any one of these going wrong will keep it from running, or at least running "right". Never, ever "assume" things are correct- - - -until you prove beyond any doubt that something's right, you have to suspect that it's wrong. Fortunately, each one of these things has a specific method of proving it's correct. Pick one item, check it out until you're sure it's right, and move on to the next one. Don't bounce around from one system to another.
Jerry"

I hesitate to say much because we don't know what's going on with phone calls or PM's. Your lack of response says you may be getting it figured out with that help. I also like to go offline on electrical myself, to prevent endless posts back and forth. Electrical and no-start take a long time. The drawback is the group and the archive does not get manifest. I try and hope the OP"s do a recap.

In cases like this, YOU MUST FIRST check for spark. Spark does not care about valves, timing, fuel or compression. It's all electrical except for the odd distributor mechanical component failure. Like broken gear or you left out the rotor, bad points, wrong gap. Once you have spark then you figure out why it won't explode gas.

William hasn't responded since the 16th.

Reading his previous post and looking at his pictures, the rocker arms that broke are the ones that have new looking pushrods (#6 and #7). Looks like the previous owner was having problems. He did say, "I did soak the cylinders with penetrating oil and couldn't get the two stuck cylinders to move". Not good.

Everybody knows how difficult it is to help someone when the poster doesn't include vital follow-up information. It's like trying to play checkers when you can't see your opponent's move.

If it was me, I would make sure the engine will rotate (not run) and not hang-up for at least 30 seconds, using the starter motor. Once I was satisfied the rotation was normal, I would do a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) test. With the spark plugs removed and throttle open, see how much cylinder pressure is measured. This could be a situation of stuck and/or cracked piston rings.

"Engine turns over -- sounds smooth and oil is moving."