Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Got a big lump worked out of the front of the hood (2 days ago if that counts ). Had to break out the torch and do some shrinking. After 4 or 5 shrink spots, the contour is close enough. Today I worked on getting the front edge of the hood straightened, fabricated a rivet squeezer out of a set of bolt cutters (thanks HRL for the suggestion), and replaced the 5 screws I had holding the hood halves together with tubular rivets as original. The hood is now ready for sandblast and primer. Cmon, Spring!!
Kevin Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com] #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. First car '29 Ford Special Coupe Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Replaced the bicycle innertube pieces that protects the tailgate chains from slamming into the truck. Whew! Am I exhausted . But while I was at it, I replaced the radio with a new unit from Custom Autosounds. Ahhhhh, music once again.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, 235cu My truck [cmaynard.com] If I'm not working on my truck or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Removed the alternator from the ‘62 C-10 this morning and took it to be rebuilt. Test showed no output at all. It’s chrome so I didn’t want to just go buy a new one.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Today I made a patch panel for the left rear cab mount floor area. It turned out that there was only 1 spot weld attaching the rear cab brace to the back of the cab. This was clearly not enough. As this 6400 was a grain truck, I am fairly confident that it spent some times in fields. The one weld probably failed many years ago. This placed all of the load on the floor. The floor eventually cracked and the cab settled a bit. Enough for the cab bolt to eventually wear a hole in the gas tank. I have the new plate, made from 16 guage, welded in and the cab brace back where it should have been and resting properly on the mount. A photo of the patch next to the badly crracked original.
Last edited by 20Mercman; Wed Jan 27 2021 02:29 AM.
‘62 C-10. Picked up my rebuilt Alternator this morning. 28* outside. At 2:30pm the temperature was a whopping 33* so it was time to reinstall it. 30 minutes later and it was ready for the test. Freshly charged battery so it fired right up. Volt meter went to 14volts then eased back to 13.8 and settled in. Idiot light on the dash (yes I have both a light and a meter) went right out as soon as the engine started. Took a test drive and didn’t let the smoke out of any wires so I guess all is good. The shop said the internal voltage regulator was bad and they replaced the bearings.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne 4dr 230 I-6 one owner (I’m #2) “Emily” ‘39 Dodge Businessmans Coupe “Clarence”
"I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
New outer t-rod rubbers, grease da front end while i was there and adjusted front brakes 2 days ago. Today, relocated coolant overflow bottle. Much needed really. I had it in da fender well, behind pass headlight and could never tell if there was anything in it. Nor was i able to add to it. Lol.
Photo of the floor repair at the left rear cab mount. Also removed left door and assessed work needed on the door. The door had sustained some collision damage at some time. It looks most likely that the door was open and it was backed into a solid obstruction. I may replace the interior door bottom as the hinge mount area was damaged. A previous repair included brazing of the attachment area.
). Had to break out the torch and do some shrinking. After 4 or 5 shrink spots, the contour is close enough. Today I worked on getting the front edge of the hood straightened, fabricated a rivet squeezer out of a set of bolt cutters (thanks HRL for the suggestion), and replaced the 5 screws I had holding the hood halves together with tubular rivets as original. The hood is now ready for sandblast and primer. 
Cmon, Spring!!
. But while I was at it, I replaced the radio with a new unit from Custom Autosounds. Ahhhhh, music once again.