Back when I had the conversion done it was easy to get used parts. There was a kit for the brackets. I even loaned them to a machinist and he copied them for his trucks.
I have emailed EPAS to determine if the same C1 type setup will fit a 1951 one ton GMC. Lets see what the spectrum of the C1 Corvette allows. Will share results as this seems to be the perfect conversion, if you can afford the $1500!
I think is has to do with the tube diameter of the column. A lot of GM cars and trucks used the (2"?) column tube. This torques off the tube, The self cancelling factory turn signal assembly I'm using came off of a Chevy sedan and it slides right on my 53 3100 column. I shortened my column 3" to use the 54 truck steering wheel with the canceling tab on it. If you are doing the EPAS that might be something to consider at the same time. Please let us know what you find out.
I did not have room to keep the steering box on top of the frame so I went with the later gm power steering box, seemed like the simplest solution at the time . I had to customize the bracket a bit to get the drag perfectly level. I never drove it without power steering so I don’t have anything to compare it to but it rides really nice.
Bill, what grade bolt did your steering arm use? I was set up to use a Saginaw box and the steering arm you have, I changed plans and used a series 400 box from CPP.
Last edited by TUTS 59; Tue Feb 14 2023 02:26 AM.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
There were two things I recall when I installed mine. I had to be careful with bolt length. You need to use grade 8 bolts that are as long as possible without bottoming out in the arm. Also, I think the holes in the knuckle are threaded. I don’t recall if I had to drill them slightly so the arm would tighten correctly. I do remember I installed it and then took it apart to double check it was tightening down right. I haven’t had any issues yet.
Bill, what grade bolt did your steering arm use? I was set up to use a Saginaw box and the steering arm you have, I changed plans and used a series 400 box from CPP.
It was 15+ years ago, so I couldn't swear to it, but I'm pretty sure the bolts came with the kit. Don't know what grade the bolts were, but the failure was the female threads in the steering arm, not the male threads of the bolt.
After this happened I went back to stock steering,
Shep; Yes my steering arm was threaded.
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; Tue Feb 14 2023 04:20 AM.
Looks pretty dangerous to me, steering parts should be able to handle that load. With that setup, very important to make sure bolts are long enough, not bottoming out, as already stated, grade 8, threaded hole in arm is deep enough, very dangerous!
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
When I decided to use the 400 series box instead of the Saginaw it was partly do to the way the steering arm mounted. I did a lot of reading on steering geometry and bump steer, having the axis points on opposite ends only added to the issues. With the 400 box mounted in the factory location I didn't need to have the long steering shaft and double u-joints. I was also able to use the factory steering arm and an adjustable drag link, the factory drag link will work but mine was worn out.
Just a note: I have a 4 inch drop axel from Sid's.
Last edited by TUTS 59; Tue Feb 14 2023 01:24 PM.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Sorry, I'm not being clear. There were threads (I think) in the knuckle or hub (not sure what its called) that the bolts have to pass through before screwing in to the new steering arm. The length of the shoulder of the bolts was very important here. The bolts had to pass through that threaded part just right in order to properly seat the new steering arm. This is from memory but I recall this took a few attempts and different bolts.
Craig, I like that set up. I honestly don't think I could fit that that box though. That looks like right where my exhaust manifold lands. I have an old Caddy motor in my truck. I'm not sure but I think my motor my be a bit wider than a SBC.
