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Forums59
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Most Online1,229 Jan 21st, 2020
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,127
'Bolter
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2-ton There is a ban on WD-40 here,I haven't bought any of it in years. Since they fixed so you have to soak the whole area in it I wont use it ! Just mostly use MMO and some PB not gonna pay 7 or 8$ for it. I detect a lot of places use kroil but they seem to work for big companies that can afford it !!
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 25,694
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Either plastic air brake lines, or the much less expensive 1/2" CPVC plumbing pipe will work for vacuum lines that will never rust or corrode. Just be sure to bracket it securely to the frame rails so it doesn't sag or get vibration cracks. The cream-colored CPVC resists freeze cracks much better than the plain old white PVC if the lines happen to accumulate some moisture. I use it routinely as conduit for trailer light wiring. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 874
'Bolter
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I think HVAC PEX tubing is probably similar to the plastic air brake tubing, you can get it at the big box home stores, I don't know the price difference but worth a look.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 427
'Bolter
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I used the steel 3/8 brake line for my diff. shifting lines because it looks original and worked fine. It's aluminized so I'm pretty sure I'll be dead before it starts rusting.
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,127
'Bolter
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2-ton I never use WD-40 cause you can't control the spray,too expensive,and marvel is better anyway. Use marvel on fine tools,my mics have been in the family for 70 years,still fine.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,512
OP
'Bolter
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I got all the lines installed. I ended up using 3/8" brake line. I only needed to make two flare ends and my flaring tool set decided to quit after the first line. I did do a couple of practice pieces first, since I hadn't made flares for a while. The threads on the flaring tool decided to lock up. I had to remove the T-handle on threaded shaft that makes the flare, and welded an old socket on the end of it. Once I got the threads free I put a lot of anti-seize on the threads and kept running it in and out. Works better than ever.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton [ stovebolt.com]
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 874
'Bolter
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I oil the threads, cone, and tube each flare, stops the flare from galling and keeps the threaded spindle working easily. Same thing with a puller, lubrication is important.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 single speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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