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#1476091 Mon Nov 21 2022 02:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 955
D
'Bolter
I am a big fan of the vinegar method. I have soaked many parts including build a trough and soaking a bumper. This might be an obvious question but will vinegar also remove paint. I have a vintage license plate I plan on placing on my latest project. It is okay but has some rough spots. I thought if I could just remove the rust and them clear coat I would be okay with the condition. No other restoration needed. I was just wondering if I soaked it in vinegar if it would also removed the paint?

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LicensePlateLarge.jpg (166.79 KB, 156 downloads)

Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
dgrinnan #1476104 Mon Nov 21 2022 05:19 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,783
B
Curmudgeon
That is a nice original plate. I can see why you want to preserve what remains. If you strip it all off and repaint then it's not original anymore. Since I'm not a plate restorer, the best I can do is provide information.

Vinegar is an acid and has a pH of 2 to 3. The pH of water is 7. The higher the pH the weaker the acid. Evaporust pH is 6.1. All acids can discolor and/or remove paint depending on how long it is in contact with the acid. I have read you use baking soda to quickly neutralize the acid. Evaporust may be better as far as less reaction with paint but be warned that Evaporust is slow at removing rust. Regardless of which acid you use, paint may come off if there is rust underneath the paint.

Once bare metal (steel) is exposed it will slowly begin rusting from moisture in the air. If you rinse the bare metal with water, you have to dry it off immediately or it will quickly rust.

Clear coating bare steel can be a problem. It also should not react with the existing paint. Try to avoid knee-jerk comments and advice here. Some clear coats are UV sensitive, some turn yellow with age and some might crack or peel over time. You don't want to apply anything that might reduce the life of the original finish. You may want to investigate something that provides protection (water, dirt, sunlight etc.) but can easily be removed. It may require periodic re-application similar to wax.

Keep us posted. This is an interesting subject


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
dgrinnan #1476123 Mon Nov 21 2022 09:42 PM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,627
O
'Bolter
Once you remove the rust, what are you going to put on the metal?

Personally, I'd remove what comes off easily with steel wool or a small wire brush in a Dremel tool and then leave it alone. Taking the rusted area to bare metal will require painting which won't match the original paint.


1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom)
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck)
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif)
1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red)
1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
dgrinnan #1476127 Mon Nov 21 2022 10:11 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,675
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I'd be careful with Evaporust. I used it to derust an old Craftsman 1/4" socket set box and it removed the paint. That being said, the paint on old license plates may be baked on and a little more durable than the box I derusted.

As long as you remove the oxygen from the metal, I think you could clear coat it and keep it from continuing to rust. Is there an epoxy clear coat that would withstand UV? - Don't know. I have used a POR15 product called Glisten PC that I put on a set of aluminum wheels, and it seems to be holding up fine. I think it's now Clear 2K Urethane but for a single license plate? $$$$$$ big_eek

I'm no expert, just throwing ideas out there. I think I'd clear coat it as-is. Looks good now.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
dgrinnan #1476131 Mon Nov 21 2022 10:27 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,783
B
Curmudgeon
Kevin, if it was like my old shiny slick Craftsman set, I could scratch paint off with my fingernail. If it was doused in muratic acid, it would remove the paint and leave pit holes where it attacked the metal.

I think Dave needs to talk with people who do preservation. Maybe old metal Children's toys where you lose value if you remove the old finish and repaint.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
buoymaker #1476134 Mon Nov 21 2022 10:38 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,675
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by buoymaker
Kevin, if it was like my old shiny slick Craftsman set, I could scratch paint off with my fingernail.
This was a '40s Craftsman set and the paint that was still on it was stuck pretty well. Must have had some rust underneath the edges that let the evaporust get under the paint. I don't remember how long I soaked it, but it was at least overnight.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
dgrinnan #1476142 Mon Nov 21 2022 11:44 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,531
K
'Bolter
I use citric acid ,you can mix it any strength ,it works like vinegar but I think it works faster.,I would try it on a small area to see how it effects the paint but I notice there will be a line we’re the liquid level and object is sticking out. ,I have two headlight buckets in soaking right now and will take a picture when I pull them out ,so far the paint is staying on.If your licence plate is not at risk of rusting through you may want to treat it like a patina vehicle we’re they coat it with i beleave lindseed oil .

dgrinnan #1476147 Tue Nov 22 2022 12:47 AM
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,260
T
'Bolter
I think etch n prep is what to use. It has phosphoric acid in it, it sort of removes rust but more so converts it. And any 2k clear top coat should not yellow unless too much is sprayed onto the part. 2K top coat clear is not UV sensitive.


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
dgrinnan #1476172 Tue Nov 22 2022 04:02 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,531
K
'Bolter
Here is the buckets they were in for about a day and a half .I don’t think you would want to put your licence plate in unless you plan to repaint it complete.

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dgrinnan #1476186 Tue Nov 22 2022 12:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 955
D
'Bolter
Thanks everyone. After all the good feedback I might be better off gently removing any loose rust and just do something like the linseed oil. I don't want to ruin the look of the vintage plate.


Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
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