I believe it’s the top of the radiator support. Most shops cut the support when they replaced the engine so it’s not in the way. Some were welded back in, and others like mine, were just tossed.
Yes, those load levelers are great. This one has the fittings on the end of its chains for direct attachment with head bolts. I should have, though, put the rotating handle to the outside because as shown, the engine hoist could interfere with it. My feeble memory says everything went great.
29 Years of Daily Driving. With a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
There is a piece of stamped metal, approximately the size and shape of the radiator to which the radiator is mounted. It in, turn is bolted to the fenders and supports them and the grill assembly by bolting to the front crossmember or the frame. It can be removed by unbolting it from the inner fenders and the frame in two places for 1/2 tons one place for 1-tons and up.
yak 50 chevy 60 years ago we just had a chain with open hooks that we put on the rocker shafts,then used a grab hook to balance it on the chain. My employer had bought a long bed pickup 216 with a loose rod. I was convinced it was a rocker,threw a rod out of it ran over the rod !! My punishment was had to change the engine. we had engines so it didn't take long.
Yes, those load levelers are great. This one has the fittings on the end of its chains for direct attachment with head bolts. I should have, though, put the rotating handle to the outside because as shown, the engine hoist could interfere with it. My feeble memory says everything went great.
I bought a load leveler from HF. Here is an excerpt from my project journals when I reinstalled my newly rebuilt motor with bell housing attached and no transmission. “The HF leveling device I bought in retrospect, was not needed and only got in the way. I originally placed the hand crank forward only to find that once the engine lift was raised it interfered with the crank. Out came the engine, set it back down in the engine stand and reversed the lifting device. Lifted the engine and tried to install and the crank hit the firewall and would not allow me to get the engine back far enough to seat on its mounts. When I removed the engine for the third time, I noticed that I didn’t have to change the level of the engine at all to remove it so it should be the same for installing it. I reset the load leveler with the handle forward and this time it installed easily and I never needed to move the leveler. Hindsight is 20-20..”
I have one of the load levelers from HF. I found the same problem that Phil ran into, I removed the hand crank and welded an old 1/2" drive socket to the shaft. I can just use a large ratchet to position the load where it needs to be. Work pretty good.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
I suppose the leveler would be more suitable with a block and tackle or gantry style lift rather than a cherry picker that draws the load toward the lifting arm
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) 1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe 1979 Ford F-100 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I have one of the load levelers from HF. I found the same problem that Phil ran into, I removed the hand crank and welded an old 1/2" drive socket to the shaft. I can just use a large ratchet to position the load where it needs to be. Work pretty good.
Good Idea! Next engine I pull, I’ll make that modification.