The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search
Whatcha doing now?
What did you get done on your Bolt today? - 2021 and later
The original thread is still in tact and we have 14 pages already for this time frame. A "mini-Project Journal" if you will.

Stovebolt driving report
Started by Cletis in 2012 - 36 pages and going strong!

Who uses their truck as a truck - 2021 and later

Re-started this thread. Three pages and counting.

Bolters in the Side Lot
are planning get togethers and what not. See who's near you.

Stay busy; keep warm!
Share your enthusiam.
Searching the Site

Get info about how to search the entire Stovebolt site here. To do a search for just the forums, get those details in the IT Shortbus fourm.
2023 Old Truck Calendars
First one
Nothing like old trucks working

2023 Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
3 members (DaveV, Steve L., Jethro in Va), 78 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums59
Topics128,332
Posts1,054,207
Members46,615
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4
#1475031 Sat Nov 12 2022 11:36 PM
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 334
W
'Bolter
I had a frustrating day today trying to weld in a patch panel in the footwell side panel. Metal is so thin there I kept blowing holes. Just had to quit for the evening

What do you do when the metal is so thin?


Kevin
1965 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
(Engine needed, originally 230)
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 592
F
'Bolter
Get shorter on the trigger. If if still blows holes work it back to good metal and then close the hole.


1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,675
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Cut that thin stuff back till you get to solid metal. It's not worth chasing the holes all over the place.
Once you get to solid metal, use quick blips on the trigger. Even with good metal, you don't want to run beads like you would when welding 1/4 inch or thicker steel. Check the sticky thread up at the top of the forum on MIG welding sheet metal.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 334
W
'Bolter
Thanks guys. I think now I got it solid. It's just going to be paper thin in places


Kevin
1965 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
(Engine needed, originally 230)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,191
F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
I second that you’re on some sort of residual, thin, rusty spot. They are a pain to stop blow through.

If accessible, a copper backup plate will work wonders for you. I have a chunk of 1” copper pipe that I’ve cut up in various ways. I’ve used it in its original circle 2-3” long, uncurled sections, created little square L shapes, wrapped a flat piece over a dolly, and even put some over a piece of flat bar. The heavy metal acts as heat sink for the weld, the copper prevents sticking, and overall greatly reduces blow through and it also creates a nice flat backed weld that is easier to planish if need be.

They are handy.

Last edited by Fox; Sun Nov 13 2022 05:22 AM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery [stovebolt.com]
More pictures here [photos.app.goo.gl]

1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.
1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife’s

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 334
W
'Bolter
Thank you Fox. Yeah I learned about that trick and have a flattened piece of pipe. I wish I could get it behind that thin metal but not possible.


Kevin
1965 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
(Engine needed, originally 230)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 25,694
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Sometimes it's going to be necessary to put a scab patch over the thin spot and metal-finish the bulge that's created by the thicker area. A little metal finishing and a thin layer of Bondo can hide a multitude of cobble work. The nice thing about sheet metal work is "If it looks good, it IS good!"
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!"
Abraham Lincoln

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self.
Ernest Hemingway

Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,205
J
'Bolter
Get an oxy-acetylene rig and learn to braze or scab patch as Jerry says and use a silver-bearing solder like Stay-Brite. It will be as strong as goat's breath and the joined part will never rust.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,675
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
The trouble with solder is that the metal has to be CLEAN for it to stick. Brazing alloys are a little more forgiving, as they usually require the base metal to be dull red, which usually means the rust is burnt off.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 334
W
'Bolter
After looking at it again today I'm taking your advice Kevin. I'm going to order a new patch panel and patch a larger area in order to get to thick(er) metal. I don't want to leave it like it is. Not happy with it.

Thanks


Kevin
1965 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside
(Engine needed, originally 230)
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4

Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5