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What did you get done on your Bolt today? - 2021 and later
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Who uses their truck as a truck - 2021 and later

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Joined: Feb 2019
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As with any dent, you need to work it out a little bit at a time or risk stretching the metal more and making the job more difficult. Using a stud puller, only pull a little bit at a time on each stud, then move to another. Pulling on the slide hammer and tapping down the crease as Kevin has suggested, will help relieve the stress in the metal.

Another possibility is to cut out the inner frame blocking the access to the backside, then weld the piece back in.

We need MP&C to weight in on this.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop & Interiors

1952 Chevrolet 3100
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,191
F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
I second Kevin. Cut out the brace. I was fighting a similar dent on a hood for a 70. This is what I did. I took my spot weld cutter and removed the front bracing on the hood. This allowed me to get behind and slowly work the dent nearly back to shape. I unfortunately sold that unfinished hood as a replacement fell into my lap for next to nothing, and the new one had next to nothing for steel work on it.

This would be my recommendation:
Cut spot welds
Remove brace.
Hammer/dolly/ pull the dent.
Check frequently with a contour gauge.
Metal finish.
Epoxy prime where you can’t reach.
Weld brace back in.

More work? Yes. Easier to do? Perhaps. Easier to control mistakes? 100%. And no welding on the damaged area with little warpage at all if your dollying is pretty good.

That’s what I’d do, but I’ve never looked at the backside of a 64-66 hood before. I have one photo of that green hood completed sitting on my buddy’s 72 suburban.

Check the link for in progress photos.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...U0NXU3V1ZlBEd3Q3d3NPMW1FYi1INnoteUZKWEt3

Attached Images
4C06828C-4902-4E17-9413-3DBC296608A3.jpeg (628.28 KB, 146 downloads)
Last edited by Fox; Wed Oct 19 2022 04:43 AM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery [stovebolt.com]
More pictures here [photos.app.goo.gl]

1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.
1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife’s

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Phak1 #1471514 Tue Oct 18 2022 03:23 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,675
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by Phak1
We need MP&C to weight in on this.
Yeah, Robert would look at that and go "PHSSH! Piece of cake!" grin
Phil and Fox's idea of removing the brace is also a good idea. But that depends on how big a piece that brace is. With the brace removed it would be simple. You'd just have to get the brace welded back in place in the correct location. Not hard, but a little more work.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 592
F
'Bolter
Many ideas I would have never thought of. Appreciate all of them.


1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 592
F
'Bolter
Started playing around with the stud puller with some coaching from a body guy. He forgot the plate which allows him to pull more than 1 stud at a time so he showed me how to use it and I attacked some of the other dents and the creases from a boat sitting on top of the roof. Had a couple small tear outs, but I was surprised how this little gadget works.

When he comes back with the needed tool I am anxious to see him get this big one out.

Attached Images
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Last edited by Ferris Bueller; Mon Jan 09 2023 07:52 PM.

1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,675
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Looks like you're getting there. thumbs_up
On your picture #4, I would have made the first pull in the very center of the dent, although it's hard to tell where that is from the picture. Looks like your studs are off to the left of center.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 592
F
'Bolter
Pic 4 hasn't started yet. Dale has a plate to pull multiple studs at once. Going to do that one hopefully this weekend.


1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



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