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#1469434 Mon Oct 03 2022 07:42 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 514
F
'Bolter
My cab is empty except for the pedals and the insulation glued in way up under the dash. I have found a place that has a 2 hr min. Better that I am not wasting too much time with the 4hr and 8hr min guys.

I have replaced all the metal I think I need to but I do expect the blasting will show something else to attend to.

Who else has done the dustless? Good bad ugly?


1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,257
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
When I got my cab blasted, the guy was at it a full 8 hours. Of course mine might have been in worse shape than yours. It was mounted on a rotisserie that allowed him to rotate it to get to everything. My blaster could have done dustless blasting, but he didn't recommend it. When you add water to the blast stream, it increases the force applied to the metal and would increase the possibility of warping the sheet metal.

If you're having the whole cab blasted, I'll bet it would take at least 4 hours to do a reasonable job.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 892
D
'Bolter
It is strange that your guy would say dustless blasting increases the chance of warping the metal (the pressure can be adjusted). The argument you hear most of the time is that dustless blasting is cooler and there is less chance for warping. I have no experience with either. I just follow all of the post because at some point I am going to need to have at least some of my truck blasted. I wonder if he was just saying that because he had a "dusty" blaster? I am curious to see what others experience has been with both methods.

Last edited by dgrinnan; Tue Oct 04 2022 11:49 AM.

Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 514
F
'Bolter
Agreed. Dustless is supposed to reduce warpage, but a experienced blaster will not warp either from what I have seen.

I think the dustless will get into all the seems on the cab better than a regular grit set up. Plus they have a rust inhibiter so it wont flash.


1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,257
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
My guy had the capability to do either dry or dustless blasting. He was the expert and I let him chose which to use. Maybe I was wrong about the warpage, but the addition of water would increase the mass of stuff hitting the metal. I don't believe that it's heat that causes the warpage, but the peening of the metal. MPandC has a video where he demonstrates the issues with blasting just on one side of a hood where the back side was made inaccessible because of reinforcements.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,166
T
'Bolter
And what media was used?


Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.


As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,257
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
He used a fine glass media, I don't recall what the grit size was though.
[on edit] grit size was 80.

Last edited by klhansen; Thu Oct 06 2022 05:34 PM. Reason: remembered the grit size

Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 163
D
'Bolter
Plenty of Dustless Blasting videos on YouTube. Here’s a ‘63 Impala done in 1 hour.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCehkkTTeMk [youtube.com]

Last edited by klhansen; Sat Oct 08 2022 03:46 AM. Reason: Removed imbedded video

1957 Chevy 3200
PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights
[img] https://www.bransonmuseum.com/listings/1957-chevrolet-3200/ [/img]
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,257
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Wondering if there's going to be anything left of that rust bucket afterwards. wink
The front of the hood looks pretty swiss cheesy.

Last edited by klhansen; Sat Oct 08 2022 02:20 AM.

Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 751
M
'Bolter
The "water is cooler so it won't warp" is marketing hype. Media hitting the panel is basically many tiny hammer heads hitting the panel. Too coarse of media is basically using larger hammers. Too high a pressure, whether that be using air or water pressure, is just swinging those hammers harder. Warping occurs when the hammers are too big or swung too hard.. has nothing to do with heat. If the panel gets hot it is from the peening action. Take a hammer and pound on a piece of sheet metal on an anvil and it also gets warm. But just like media blasting, the panel stretches long before the heat shows up.

The biggest detractor for using the dustless blasting is that the slurry that it makes winds up in nooks and crannies and is difficult at best to remove. So now it becomes the next moisture trap for starting more rust.

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Moderated by  klhansen 

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