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WICruiser #1469141 Sat Oct 01 2022 05:45 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,098
B
Sir Searchalot
Just some ideas

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WICruiser #1469174 Sun Oct 02 2022 01:31 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,289
5
'Bolter
You will be able to tell how secure your bracketry is by having someone turn the steering wheel while you watch to see if the box moves from frame flexing. There is a lot of torsional force going on there.

52Carl #1469187 Sun Oct 02 2022 05:41 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,098
B
Sir Searchalot
Originally Posted by 52Carl
You will be able to tell how secure your bracketry is by having someone turn the steering wheel while you watch to see if the box moves from frame flexing. There is a lot of torsional force going on there.

This is a good idea for a test, but may not expose the loads of driving around corners. I.E. lean, weight transfer and such that the suspension my induce. My comments are supposition mixed with my background but I am not a steering box modification designer or pitman arm load engineer.

It is OK to box a short section of the frame if that strikes you. All this only if you find too much flex as Carl mentions.





WICruiser #1469197 Sun Oct 02 2022 12:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 378
W
'Bolter
Thanks for the information.

I will evaluate the mount once I am able to fit a drag link. The plan is to flip the drag linnk to mount inboard of the pitman arm which puts it roughly in it's original location. The problem is that all of the typical drag link options would require the spindle connection to come from the bottom up and that would require modification of the spindle arm. I am currently expecting to "build" a drag link with new style tie rod ends and a tube that will allow the ends to be oreinted correctly.

Bartamos, I understand the concern about the bracket flexing and appreciate the ideas for reinforcement. Given the concern is flexing along the length of the lower vertical flange your channel support replacing the spacers would as close to the bolts as possible would help.


1949/50 3600 Project
WICruiser #1469201 Sun Oct 02 2022 12:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 409
B
'Bolter
"Heaviest load is turning the steering wheel at a dead stop" says the guy who broke two stock and one aftermarket steering arms daily driving a '57 GMC 1/2 ton from 1990 through 2012.

WICruiser #1469226 Sun Oct 02 2022 04:31 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 378
W
'Bolter
I pulled the spindle steering arm and removed the original ball stud. The spindle arm ball shank is 0.750 diameter, while the drag arm ball shank is 0.625 diameter.

I do not expect to find rod ends with straight shanks (all appear to be tapered) but curious what others may have used when converting to more recent rod ends. I suspect that both the pitman arm and spindle arm holes will need to be machined with a taper and probably sized to be the same in the process.


1949/50 3600 Project
WICruiser #1469244 Sun Oct 02 2022 07:17 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,098
B
Sir Searchalot
There is all kinds of stuff like THIS [summitracing.com] available.

Click [barnes4wd.com]

Some kits are $300-$500!!!!!!!!!!!

You can build with DOM tubing, "adapt" the ends, weldable........READ [skysoffroaddesign.com]





WICruiser #1469372 Mon Oct 03 2022 12:53 PM
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 378
W
'Bolter
Bartamos, thanks for the links. I have seen the rod ends like the Summit version but prefer a sealed/greasable joint. I have also seen the kits with weld in inserts for the threaded portion of the tube but am a little concerned about the weld joints on such a critical steering part, I may just need to get over it and make sure the welds are good.

I need to talk to my machinist but I may be able to buy DOM tubing and have the ID threaded (RH & LH) to accept 1 ton rod ends and have the pitman arm and spindle arm machined to accept the tapered rod end stud.


1949/50 3600 Project
WICruiser #1469384 Mon Oct 03 2022 02:20 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,098
B
Sir Searchalot
thumbs_up





WICruiser #1469414 Mon Oct 03 2022 05:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,725
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Originally Posted by WICruiser
I have also seen the kits with weld in inserts for the threaded portion of the tube but am a little concerned about the weld joints on such a critical steering part, I may just need to get over it and make sure the welds are good.

Compared to the stamped piece the factory puts out?

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