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Getting back to business
First round of holidays is about over. A few weeks before the next ones. For some of us...

Winter is Coming
Time to think about wintering your Bolt.
(continued)

A good Tech Tip
WINTERIZING YOUR TRUCK
including a link back to the Forums for some new thoughts.

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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,108
Former BMW Rider
For your viewing pleasure..........

Good luck!

Attached Images

Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104 [flic.kr]
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred [flic.kr]

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,446
K
'Bolter
My truck is a 54 gmc 9300 Canadian model that comes with a 235 .my 235 was changed when I got it and it has a newer 235 in it that has the waterpump in the lower position so when it is hot out and you are in standing traffic the temperature goes up . From this site I learned about the 54 engines having the waterpump in the same position as the older 216 engines .if your engine is newer like mine it will run hotter ,I am planning on getting a kit to relocate and use the older waterpump ,but in my area we don’t get the hot weather for long so it runs at the right temperature with the exception of the few times .

Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
P
'Bolter
Thank you everyone for the help.
HandyAndy - Thanks for the pictures, I am a visual person, helped me understand how it functions.

Still struggling with getting the riser shaft loose, 4 hits with PB Blaster, struggling to remove the spring, I figured it simply would slip out...NOT

An interesting finding - when I was testing the riser spring, I was running the engine, to let it heat up. At first the radiator was cool, after about idling for about 10 mins, then the radiator became hot to the touch (which meant coolant was moving through the thermostat and the water pump is working). Engine was idling just fine. The temperature gauge got to the H, but the idle stayed smooth. It wasn't rough idling. I let it run another 5 minutes. I shut it off. My question now is whether the engine is truly overheating (need to find a way to measure the temp). The temperature gauge eventually returns to C. Will continue to focus on the heat riser issue, but am puzzled by what is happening.

Attached Images
1954 Heat Riser.JPG (230.26 KB, 154 downloads)
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,163
O
'Bolter
If your radiator is full and you have the correct 4psi radiator cap on it and it isn't boiling over, it's probably not overheating.

You definitely need to fix that heat riser valve, though. New springs are available if yours isn't any good.

Even if the engine isn't overheating per se, the heat riser could be stuck in such a position as to direct too much heat to the base of the carburetor causing the fuel to be vaporized before it gets to the combustion chamber.

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; Wed Sep 14 2022 02:01 AM.

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom)
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck)
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif)
1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red)
1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,785
P
'Bolter
Tell us about your fan and shroud

Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
P
'Bolter
Otto - I agree, that sounds more like what the source of the issue is. I am checking to see if I can find the spring locally, I know I can order it.

Panic - It has a 4 blade fan (pic enclosed) no shroud.

Attached Images
1954 Radiator & fan.JPG (536.99 KB, 123 downloads)
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
P
'Bolter
Otto - The radiator cap, while old, says it is 7 PSI - Do I need to change it to 4?

Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,163
O
'Bolter
Yes. Install a 4 psi cap. Every additional pound of pressure raises the boiling point by 3 degrees.

It never came with a shroud and the fan is stock. I live in Atlanta and the stock fan with no shroud works just fine in 90+ degree heat.

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; Thu Sep 15 2022 12:19 PM.

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom)
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck)
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif)
1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red)
1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
P
'Bolter
Hello,

Started on working loose the heat riser rod, I went to work on the counterweight side and there is none!!! I am not sure if the previous owner (who loaned this truck to a high school class to rebuild) just cut the rod or what since the end of the rod and spring is still there. I put a screwdriver in the hole where the counterweight should be, and it goes all the way to the other wall. So, there is no valve in there. This must mean that exhaust heat is going both to the intake and exhaust manifolds.

I replaced the radiator cap (4 PSI) and ran it again at idle. I let it run for about 20 minutes. At about 10 minutes the temp needle was at H. At about 13 minutes radiator warmed up. I let it run another 5 minutes and it idled just fine. So, it does not appear to be overheating.

Given my current status, I think the next step is to test the sensor and gauge to see if they have any issues. Thoughts? Thanks again for all of your help.

Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,163
O
'Bolter
Buy an infrared thermometer ($20 or so) and you can shoot temps all over the engine - upper and lower rad hose, T stat housing, head, carb base, intake manifold below carb, exhaust manifold, etc.

That will give you a good idea about how your engine is behaving

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; Tue Sep 20 2022 01:10 AM.

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom)
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck)
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif)
1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red)
1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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