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Getting back to business
First round of holidays is about over. A few weeks before the next ones. For some of us...

Winter is Coming
Time to think about wintering your Bolt.
(continued)

A good Tech Tip
WINTERIZING YOUR TRUCK
including a link back to the Forums for some new thoughts.

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2023 Stovebolt Calendars

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Mike Burns #1464849 Thu Sep 01 2022 07:12 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,264
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
You can't add joints to the rod between the pedal and the bellcrank on the motor or it won't be able to push the linkage anymore. The pedal moves in an arc, and the original rod has the bend in it to accommodate that arc. My cab was severely settled in front enough that the brake and clutch pedals were rubbing, but the accelerator rod was not, because it was attached closely to the accelerator pedal, which is attached to the cab. The other end on the engine is far enough away that it didn't cause much movement at the toeboard and cause any wear.
I'll post some info from my rod for Mike so he can get his rod back into the right shape.

[on edit] Here's a pic of my accelerator linkage rod with some dimensions that should get you close. I clamped the big end to my table and measured some critical points.

Attached Images
IMG_5352.JPG (390.1 KB, 119 downloads)
Last edited by klhansen; Thu Sep 01 2022 11:50 PM.

Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Mike Burns #1464953 Fri Sep 02 2022 06:44 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,655
B
Curmudgeon
Simply cool Kevin. Thanks.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Mike Burns #1464955 Fri Sep 02 2022 06:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,226
J
'Bolter
Anywhere along the travel of the accelerator rod (accelerator to carb) that you CAN add a smoother function is 100 times better that the worn out junk that many are using.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy [stovebolt.com]
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed [stovebolt.com]
Mike Burns #1464958 Fri Sep 02 2022 07:30 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,655
B
Curmudgeon
My 1955 is 67 years old and still has it's original linkage. I have no discernable play that would make me want to alter what I have.
If I did have play, I would find out were it is and repair it back to original.
I guess you can call it pride but there is something to be said about wanting to maintain a piece of history.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Mike Burns #1465055 Sat Sep 03 2022 08:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 532
M
'Bolter
This morning, I finally got a smoothly operating accelerator linkage working on my 53 truck. The curve in the top end (pedal end), does not even come close to the original, but it works fine. I think that part of my problem may be that I'm probably working with mismatched parts from "who knows what". I replaced the portion of the floor where the pedals and linkages go through too, although I tried to be very careful to locate all holes in their original locations. My brake, clutch, and starter pedals all line up fine, so I assume that the gas pedal hole is correct too. I have another pedal to bellcrank rod that is similar to the original except that it's a little longer, and it has a dog leg in the upper fat area. I'm going to re-shape it to match Kevin's picture and measurements. Then I'll try to see if I can make it work the way it was originally itended. For now, at least it's working.


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Mike Burns #1465376 Tue Sep 06 2022 02:50 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,290
C
'Bolter
Here’s a side and top view of my spare gas pedal rod. Not certain it is still factory bent. Note the slight zig zag in the top view pic

Attached Images

Craig's '50 Chevy 3100 5 window
My truck
If I'm not working on my truck or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Mike Burns #1465403 Tue Sep 06 2022 05:34 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,264
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Yep, that's the 2" offset I showed (noted on the paper towel background) on the photo I posted.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Mike Burns #1465535 Wed Sep 07 2022 07:38 PM
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,985
F
'Bolter
Mike Burns I just get mine on the anvil,or clamp in the vise use a pipe over it,gotta watch for wind in it (will bind) some place there is a picture so you can see the curvature of about what it takes. Gotta go thru that felt about straight or it wont want to come back to idle like it should.

cmayna #1465536 Wed Sep 07 2022 07:42 PM
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,985
F
'Bolter
cmayna They do need that zig-zag offset to help hit the bellcrank just right,that curve looks close to factory if not right on it.

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