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(continued)

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WINTERIZING YOUR TRUCK
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#1464707 Wed Aug 31 2022 05:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 532
M
'Bolter
I'd love to see a picture of a rod that runs between the accelerator pedal and the bellcrank, that works nice and smooth. Th rod that came with my truck had a large sweeping curve in the large cab end when I got it. I straightened it the 3 inches or so at the top, and it will work now but is still just a little too stiff to slide smoothly. I have been eyeballing it, and trying to find signs of where it's rubbing, and bending accordingly. It just seems like common sense, but so far mine hasn't kicked in completely. Pics, tips, hints, etc all appreciated.


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Mike Burns #1464728 Wed Aug 31 2022 09:29 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,655
B
Curmudgeon
Truck pics.

Attached Images
1954.jpg (80.11 KB, 156 downloads)
1959.jpg (55.1 KB, 155 downloads)

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Mike Burns #1464746 Wed Aug 31 2022 11:34 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 532
M
'Bolter
Mine looked very much like the one in the factory drawing, before I started straightening portions of it. I guess that I probably should have left it alone. I don't really remember why I thought that it needed altered. Anybody have any recommendations on how to put the original curve back on it??


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Mike Burns #1464751 Thu Sep 01 2022 12:16 AM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1,163
O
'Bolter
Use pipe bending coil of the correct inside diameter. It's used for putting curves in copper pipes without creasing or bending them.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Spr...Nr7sX4BAuwaAjehEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; Thu Sep 01 2022 12:19 AM.

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom)
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck)
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif)
1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe
1979 Ford F-100
1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red)
1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Mike Burns #1464755 Thu Sep 01 2022 01:12 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 6,264
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
A pipe bending coil won't work very well unless it's inside the tubing. Not really possible with the accelerator rod.

A bending jig made from a disk of wood of slightly smaller radius than desired to allow for some springback. A sandwich around that disk would be good to keep it in line. Kind of hard to describe in words, but here's a sketch.

I could dig mine out and figure out the bend radius for you.

Attached Images
IMG_5347.JPG (142.47 KB, 133 downloads)
Last edited by klhansen; Thu Sep 01 2022 01:15 AM.

Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Mike Burns #1464758 Thu Sep 01 2022 01:27 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,289
5
'Bolter
By altering the bend of that thick part, you have destroyed the geometry that was engineered into this setup.
SInce the end of that rod is bolted to the pivot bracket on the back of the gas pedal and the pedal is hinged at the toeboard, the pedal swings forward on an arc.
The curved bend in the rod is there to accommodate the arc in the swing of the pedal to avoid contact with the hole in the toeboard.
If one has a need to alter one of these rods to work with a non-stock engine, bends and extensions need to be limited to the skinny part of the rod.
It is also important that the skinny part of the rod travels in the same direction/angle as the original.
Failure to do that will also result in destroying the geometry of this rod.

Mike Burns #1464770 Thu Sep 01 2022 02:34 AM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 532
M
'Bolter
Thanks guys. I understand all of your replies. As I said earlier, I should have just left it alone. But it did not slide through the toe board smoothly enough to use at that time either. So, maybe it wasn't correct as original manufacture anyway. In any case, I'll get it figured out eventually. Thanks for the responses.

Last edited by Mike Burns; Thu Sep 01 2022 02:41 AM.

Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Ford Victoria
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
Mike Burns #1464830 Thu Sep 01 2022 05:07 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,655
B
Curmudgeon
Just an idea.
The accelerator rod, that goes through the floorboard, moves through a thick felt seal.
Remove the seal and test the movement.
If the linkage is free, the rod may be riding against the seal causing significant drag because the rod alignment is not correct.
The link is a picture of a new seal, for reference only.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122328548165

Last edited by buoymaker; Thu Sep 01 2022 05:08 PM.

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Mike Burns #1464837 Thu Sep 01 2022 05:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,226
J
'Bolter
I added heim joints/rod ends to each attachment point of my accellerator rods, now smooth as silk. I see trucks all the time that are still running original rods which are nearly worn through. There are rod ends available at most hardware stores, also search Speedway motors for their assortment.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/rod-end-and-heim-joint-buyers-guide/28762

Last edited by JiMerit Boltr#43; Thu Sep 01 2022 05:32 PM.

It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy [stovebolt.com]
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed [stovebolt.com]
Mike Burns #1464843 Thu Sep 01 2022 06:26 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,655
B
Curmudgeon
Well excellent! Please post pictures of what you have. I for one would like to see how it is done.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
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