Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop 235- cleaning block and cylinders

1959 Apache 235.
this is my first try at taking the engine apart to freshen it up. Having the head reworked by pros and need suggestions as to the best way to clean the block top and cylinders. Having never done this before, i don't want to get the wrong liquid on the rings or damage the internals with grit etc.. where would i go to find the basics? any tricks also would be helpful as well as any "make sure you don't do this or that".
thanks so much for all your help!!

Oldtruckspapa

Depends on if it's still in the truck or how much of the rest of the engine is still attached. I have steam cleaned ( really hot water ) long blocks inside and out then oiled them up before any rust could form. These were really dirty inside so it was the quickest and easies way to clean them without tearing them apart. At a bare minimum, you need to pull the sheet metal pieces ( side cover and oil pan ) and clean out what you can with brushes and scrapers using your choice of solvents. Everyone has their preferred cleaner to use, mine is high pressure hot water and Castrol degreaser.
Any cleaning solvent you use will run down the cylinder walls and collect at the top rings when cleaning the piston tops. Soft wire brushes and compressed air will minimize the crud collecting at the rings. If you choose to go with a liquid cleaner, flush the cylinder walls and oil afterwards, another reason to pull the sheet metal. Engines are really tough, it takes a really big mistake to hurt one. Some degreasers are hard on aluminum and bearing material if left to long, Castol being one of them, so don't leave them soaking to long. The old method was to use gasoline, brushes, scrapers, and compressed air.

How did you steam clean?

Just for clarity, "best way to clean the block top and cylinders" means the crankshaft and other engine parts are still attached.
If so, clean nothing except the top of the block. Put rags and such in the cylinders to catch falling particles.
There is usually carbon or combustion residue that fills in the spaces around the old head gasket.
This you want to clean off without scratching the machined surface of the block. The surface needs to be flat.
Afterwards you can remove the rags and vacuum out any particles remaining.
Optionally, after cleaning the top and if you have easy access, pull the oil pan and give it a good cleaning. Install a new oil pan gasket.
After running the engine for a while, change the oil again.

thanks guys, the remainder of the engine is still in the truck. I'll start the cleaning process tomorrow, Lord willing. there are a lot of opinions on the best way to do this it seems. Really appreciate your time and responses. will report back with results in a few weeks!!

thanks again,

Oldtruckspapa

Papa, if you for any reason decide to remove the oil pan and clean out as has been mentioned, please do not try to push the pistons up and out from the bottom. There will be a wear ridge at the top of each cylinder. You can feel it with your fingernail or maybe with only your fingertip. If you push the pistons up and out, the piston rings will catch on that ridge and can be broken if forced...and it doesn't take as much effort as you might think. If you feel compelled to remove the pistons this way, you'll need to get a ridge reamer to cut that ridge off first. I only mention it because you've mentioned this is you first time and I've seen friends (with whom this information wasn't shared) make this mistake. Also, you can use an old vacuum cleaner to suck debris out of cylinders if need be. Good luck.

Or use the best vacuum in the house and hide the evidence from your wife.

It was a very common procedure when I started making a little pocket change as a part time mechanic in the late 1950's and early 60's to do an "in the frame" engine rebuild- - - -ream the ring ridge, hone the cylinders, replace rings and sometimes connecting rod bearings (or adjust the clearance on Babbit rods), regrind the valves, and reassemble everything. Getting the cylinders cleaned up after the honing job was the biggest challenge. That kind of overhaul was usually good for about 30K miles or so.
Jerry

The power washer I use has a temp setting that can be adjusted for cool, warm or hot, I turn it all the way up. The engines I have washed out were on stands, crank, rods, pistons, and camshaft still in the block. I had little money to spend, this was the quickest and easiest way to get them clean, just add new gaskets and get them on the road or track. I never had one good bad because it was washed out.

Millions of engines over the years have been cleaned and overhauled in frame style. Years back, my dad drove seven of kids to my uncles house 3 hours away, we played for a day and half while he and the uncle overhauled the wagons engine. He drove us all home in the same wagon Sunday afternoon so he could get back to work on time Monday. The garage they worked in had a dirt floor!

I have done what HRL is describing, valve job, new bearings, new rings and re assemble. It was a pretty common thing back in the dark ages. it worked well