The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search
2023 ... plans, plans, plans

Holidays are over

Hunkering down for winter ... how about your truck?
Winter storage.

Doing some truck maintenance?
The Shops Area may be useful.

Eager to plans some trips?
See what's shaking near you in The Side Lot.

How about your computer?
Plenty of help in the IT Shortbus.

Be of good cheer!
The days are getting longer.
Searching the Site

Get info about how to search the entire Stovebolt site here. To do a search for just the forums, get those details in the IT Shortbus fourm.
2023 Old Truck Calendars
First one
Nothing like old trucks working

2023 Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
19 members (87GN, chevyb, BigBore, glennj3, 4 invisible), 231 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums59
Topics128,266
Posts1,053,232
Members46,580
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 392
3
'Bolter
I can not only not find original seat for this truck but dont even know how it would even latch in if i did?? Confused. Does anyone have any diagram pic or info?


'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 392
3
'Bolter
No one knows? brrrrr Well these trucks are approaching 100 yrs old.. Its probably harder and harder to find the answer. blush This subject is crossing the older thread but different so I will explain what I am doing. I am custom welding an old seat frame to fit bc I didnt like any of th alternatives and this cab is small.. front of the seat is only 43" width.. back wider.. anyway once I add the foam and put it together; not sure how Im gonna attach it to the tub base on the '38.. maybe drill holes and hog ring it.. but really curious how they did it factory! headscratch

Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; Sun Jul 03 2022 07:40 PM.

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,909
W
back yard wrench turner
I remember on my truck it had an adjustment to move the bottom of the seat forward. It must have been floating on top of the riser somehow.
I can't imagine anyone needing to move the seat forward. I barely have enough leg room with my replacement seat now.

Check with oldmemoriescc. Although he hasn't been on since oct 2021.

Last edited by Wayne67vert; Sun Jul 03 2022 10:05 PM.

Wayne

When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!

1938 1-Ton Farm Truck
-30-
Stovebolt Gallery Forums
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 392
3
'Bolter
Heres what I found on the '38.. back adjustment. Still no info on base atatchment though.

Attached Images
cab.png (24.07 KB, 127 downloads)

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 280
D
'Bolter
I think the 38 is the same as the 36 cab,there is a tub that the bottom cushion rides on. Attached shows how my seat fits on the tub.

Attached Images
100_4622.JPG (345.5 KB, 118 downloads)
100_4623.JPG (175.84 KB, 119 downloads)
100_4614.JPG (262.88 KB, 118 downloads)
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 392
3
'Bolter
Thanks to both of you. dunfire that is SUPER helpful!! I see so thats what those metal prongs are with the 3 settings. oh I see those are for the back part of the seat. And it looks like the seat is simply secured by the drivers weight and the wood stops too.

Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; Mon Jul 04 2022 04:21 PM.

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 280
D
'Bolter
the four iron bars keeps the bottom cushion from sliding around.

Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 269
3
'Bolter
'unlike a '36, a '38 has the gas tank under the seat like my '37 except they moved the filler outside and put in a full bottom seat instead of the split flip up for the gas bung. yes the 3 notch thing is how the seat back adjusts. the bottom is stationary. they were all metal springs, no wood though the adjusters and mounting rails over the tank frame came out a few years down the road. Mine came with the wrong springs so I'm not sure the exact way the bottom clipped in but if you are fabbing you can be more creative than the original lame engineering and still look original.

Last edited by 37 GC; Wed Jul 06 2022 04:50 AM.

Larry
All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,592
J
'Bolter
The bottom rails in my seat bottoms were all cracked, so I welded in supports. The support rails fit just inside the seat riser so they stay in place. I have since added a small spacer so the front of the seat is now higher for more leg support.

Attached Images
37 pictures 013.jpg (125.69 KB, 55 downloads)
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 392
3
'Bolter
"you can be more creative than the original lame engineering and still look original." I agree. Like Joes set up.. creative and looks real clean. I am thinking of welding 'L' brackets to my frame and bolting them in.. but it would be nice to get the seat out more easily like above.. plus the added supprt.

Last edited by 38_1.5Ton; Sun Jul 10 2022 03:49 AM.

'38 1.5ton; "The stuff is as tough as woodpecker lips"
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5