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showme Offline OP
Well, it's finally done. Thank you very much Kevinski, for the go through the bottom idea. I sprayed it with some Kroil yesterday and then today went after it. I tried oiling it, heating it, beating it and talking dirty to it, but it still was not budging. So I loosened the throttle linkage, pulled the oil filter and hung it to one side (the lower hose was broke in half!! Must have dry rotted after sitting so long, so I'm glad I unhooked it from the manifold. Made it easier to get to the counter weight, too.) Pulled the exhaust pipe off the manifold and started spraying the inside bearing points. I tried tapping it, lightly prying it, putting a small vice grip on the rod, and it still didn't go. So I sprayed it some more and went back up top and put the vice grip on the weight and wiggled it, but nothing. Finally I got my ball peen and tapped the weight towards the manifold and I thought I saw some movement. At that point I just alternated tapping from both sides and within a minute or so, it started moving a hair. Then a 32nd, then a sixteenth, and finally it was moving free. I grabbed the weight with the vice grips and worked it up and down, sprayed it some more and it finally freed up enough for the weight to return to open every time. Fortunately, it was a beautiful day in the high 50's and I had a rear fender bracket on the Silverado that needed mending, so everytime I'd start to get irritated, I switched jobs. Got 'em both done.

I'm going to order a few parts before I put it back together. I'm getting some new oil lines for the filter, a new bi-metallic spring (I thing I have one, but it's in "one of those boxes in there"). Same with the gasket. I may even have new oil lines. I'm bad about buying stuff 'just in case'. Need new lock washers for the oil filter bracket and tail pipe hanger, and probably get new bolts for the exhaust connection. BTW, I won't need brass nuts, since this has threaded bushings in the exhaust manifold. The bolts came out easy and look good, but one is a little bent. The exhaust is pretty new, so that helped. Anyway, the jobs not "done", per se, but the valve is fixed, so that's good enough for me. Here are some before and after and after that pics. Thanks every body for the help and moral support. I will say I have to disagree completely with the guys who say a stuck heat riser flap won't cause the engine to overheat. Either you've never had one stuck completely closed, or you're lucky. I flushed the radiator, changed hoses, thermostat, belt (at which point I also pulled the radiator and checked it while it was out. Nothing. This stuck flap was the trouble. I would have never thought it could make the truck get hot so fast, but it does. I will forever more be checking that little spring and flap each time I open the hood. Still wasn't as bad as those king pins last summer!

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IMG_0019.jpg (174.76 KB, 23 downloads)
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Last edited by showme; Mon May 23 2022 02:03 AM.

"When I rest, I rust"
1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,558
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
While a working heat riser is a good idea, it's very unlikely to cause the coolant to overheat. Try putting a little pressure on the radiator with a hand pump and see if it goes away quickly. If you're running the original radiator don't go over 4-5 PSI or you're likely to spring a leak in the radiator or heater core. I'm going to guess the pressure won't stay there long, and you'll probably find a blown head gasket or a cracked head, or possibly nothing worse than a stuck thermostat. If the pressure stays there for 10-15 minutes or more, pull the thermostat and do a boil test on it.

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