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#1452307 Sat May 21 2022 03:32 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,716
S
'Bolter
Decided to freshen up the distributor of the newly acquired 235. After looking at the points I noticed that one of the springs was not attached and the points wire was barely hanging on. Simple fix, right? I thought after loosening the nut on the post that there would be a gap to put everything in but I can’t make a gap. Tried *gently* tapping on the post but nothing. Didn’t try harder because I didn’t want to damage anything. Suggestions?

Thanks

Attached Images
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Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,898
J
'Bolter
There is normally a nut that goes inside the insulator block that you unscrew using a pair of small needle-nosed pliers or you can use a small screwdriver. But you have a rubber grommet on the outside, so I'm not certain what you have there. Please let me know if you need me to provide digital images.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,898
J
'Bolter
I had a distributor handy so I went ahead with the image of it. There's a nut which holds the connector on and under that is the slotted round nut which keeps the whole she-bang in place.

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MVC-205F.JPG (34.29 KB, 277 downloads)

Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,558
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
GM had a special tool to loosen the slotted nut that's down in the recess in the outboard insulator. A work around is grinding a gap into the center of a stubby straight bladed screwdriver to clear the threaded stud, or filing a piece of 1/4" steel fuel line to leave a couple of projections to engage the slotted nut. The vintage OEM tools are usually available on Ebay.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,716
S
'Bolter
Thanks Jon & Jerry. The odd nut was exposed from the grommet and I tried using small needle nose pliers but the whole post turned. Couldn’t get anything on the other end to stop it. I was able to align and stuff the 2nd spring and the condenser wire into the gap, and then gently tapped them down. It was a very tight fit and I hope they stay put.

I found that there was a lot of compacted, hard, dry grease in the cup and in the channel behind it leading to the shaft. I used solvent and a small screwdriver to finally get it cleaned out. The whole thing was rusty, crusty, and ugly, so I used the wire wheel to clean the distributor and small parts then painted them. Reassembled it and it turned out nicely.

Thanks for helping me.

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561F5AC0-BDC0-4E78-882F-67ECF1289C4E.jpeg (174.88 KB, 240 downloads)
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B79A0671-5B45-4D77-8A28-31D89CA94BB1.jpeg (149.66 KB, 239 downloads)
1F85FE93-1EF3-4C9A-BF4D-7852DE363752.jpeg (198.15 KB, 240 downloads)

Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,558
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Some of the antique tractor parts places have those insulators and stud assemblies available brand new, as Delco Remy supplied some of the farm equipment manufacturers with ignition systems. I believe Oliver tractors in particular used Delco electric systems, and possibly some International and John Deere models as well.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,716
S
'Bolter
Good to know Jerry. I browse through a Tractor Supply store or two every two weeks when I’m out in the country with my job. Love that place! I’ll bet I can find some orange Kubota or Allis-Chalmers spray paint that’s close enough to FRAM orange. I’m restoring my original FRAM oil filter that goes on the new 235.

Attached Images
Last edited by Spotbiltxo; Sun May 22 2022 04:12 AM. Reason: Added photos

Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,558
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
I think I've seen that insulator block on the shelf at my local Tractor Supply store, along with other ignition parts that are common to stovebolt bits and pieces.
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 171
B
'Bolter
Deve pointed me at it.

Steiner Tractor Parts
810-621-3000

Delco Distributor Terminal Insulator part # ABC500


Steiner Tractor Parts [antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com]

I bought one (and a spare) two years ago. Fits and works great.

Last edited by Bill Hanlon; Sun May 22 2022 03:57 PM.

'52 GMC 150 driver, so not a REAL Stovebolt.
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,132
D
'Bolter
One question, did you dig in the distributor behind the grease cup for the spring and the Bakelite spacer/rub block. You want to check that the spacer rub block is there. Otherwise the spring is riding on the shaft of the distributor wearing a groove in it.

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175EE6C9-E644-459A-8A22-8CDE2D1E1F28.jpeg (393.34 KB, 165 downloads)
2C893D5B-DDAC-47E3-9FA4-823A863E6837.jpeg (377.23 KB, 167 downloads)
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Last edited by Dragsix; Mon May 23 2022 08:49 PM.

Mike
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