The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Happy Birthday U S A !

Celebrating


Life, Liberty
and the
Persuit of Happiness


Happy Birthday
A M E R I C A

July 4 - 246 years



Stories, Pictures, Thoughts

Stovebolt Site Search
'
Oh Lord, I just gotta find it....

A pdf guide to help you search the Site


Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
4 members (Rabaut, KEVINSKI, Phak1, D B Cooper), 75 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums59
Topics128,080
Posts1,037,100
Members45,928
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 6 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 120
T
'Bolter
I'm late to the game but figured I'd chime in, as I did 25 years ago most of what it looks like you're in the middle of. I put a 350 in my '53 3600, keeping everything else stock (including 4 speed SM420 trans). As I'm sure you've learned, the steering box will need to move about 2" out to clear any kind of conventional exhaust manifolds on a SBC. Also you'll need to cut out part of the firewall to clear the distributor (and also the rear of the rocker arm cover, IIRC). My 350 gave me plenty of power and was fund to drive, but I never was able to get it to cool properly, and so I overheated it regularly and ended up with a pretty massive engine failure (one of the valves snapped off and was actually embedded in the piston).

At that point I decided to go back to the stovebolt 6 that the truck was designed for. I ran a bone stock 216 for several years with zero problems. I found a slightly used 1.5 ton truck 235 (splash oiler) for sale near me for $250. The guy said it only had 5,000 miles on it. I put that engine in and have never looked back! A well-running 235 has plenty of power for this truck, and with 235/75 R16 tires and a 4.11 rear end transplant, I can cruise comfortably between 65-70 on the highway.


1953 3600 Pickup [stovebolt.com]
1946 Fleetline Aerosedan
1948 Hudson Commodore
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,105
5
'Bolter
Originally Posted by WICruiser
Thanks for the insight.

I am planning on using the NV3500 manual transmission but the bell housing is integrated to the transmission so in some ways not terribly different than an automatic.

52Carl, if I understand your setup correctly the modified cross member is not attached to the engine/transmission but retained to provide the frame stiffness that would otherwise be lost. I am assuming that there is a new transmission support cross member farther back but given that it is only providing transmission support it doesn't need to be as robust for frame reinforcement.

Sounds like I need to stop getting ahead of myself (again) and when I get to the point of putting in engine mounts I can better evaluate the clearance issues associated with the original bell housing cross member.
You are correct about the modified crossmember is just there for support of the leaf spring mount.
I used the original bolt-on crossmember which supports the torque tube for my transmission tail mount. I had to slide it back on the frame 4 inches, but got lucky as the two rear holes in the frame lined up with the two front holes of the crossmember, so I only had to drill two holes in the frame.
I used a transmission mount designed for my auto transmission.

Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 209
W
'Bolter
Tyler, I am surprised to hear that you had cooling problems with the SBC.

I am familiar with the steering interference issue, just have not decided exactly how I plan to resolve it.

Several have advised that engine placement is key to allowing the engine to be installed with firewall clearance for the distributor and rocker covers so I remain hopeful that I can navigate those concerns.

Glad to hear that your 235 is working well.


1949/50 3600 Project
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 120
T
'Bolter
Well it was my own stupid fault. When I got my truck it was missing the sheet metal filler piece between the bottom grille bar and the radiator, so the air flow through the grille was not all forced into the radiator. After I blew up the 350 I discovered this problem, was able to source a take-off bottom grille pan, and have been running cool ever since with my Stovebolt 6s.

Best of luck with your project! Sounds like your truck is going to be a very sweet ride. :-)


1953 3600 Pickup [stovebolt.com]
1946 Fleetline Aerosedan
1948 Hudson Commodore
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,076
F
'Bolter
The 50 3600 I bought in 99 had a SBC V8 in it already. Farm/home conversion. Steering gear and column moved outboard to clear exhaust, etc. SM-420 behind it with original everything else. Built for grunt work and not speed or sport. It even had a goose neck hitch plate in the bed… Many times I have wished I still had it.

Good luck with your project.

Last edited by Frank50; Sun May 22 2022 11:41 PM. Reason: Simplify post

Professional Novice
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 209
W
'Bolter
As noted in my project journal I cut out the original cross member to clear the transmission and got my engine and transmission mounts located and installed.

I am still planning to rebuild the original cross member as a bolt in similar to what 52carl indicated although I think my transmission will require the center section to be moved further back and perhaps not as low. I noticed that the driver's side cross member is cracked when it is rivited to the frame so I will need to weld that in the process.


1949/50 3600 Project
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24,558
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
The steering gear/exhaust interference problem can be solved by running a driver's side exhaust manifold for a 1955-57 265 V8. Ebay or your friendly local Swap Meet usually has a few available. The outlet flange is all the way forward, which eliminates the steering column interference a rams' horn manifold causes. Unless you're planning to run very high RPM most of the time, there won't be enoug exhaust back pressure to notice with a daily driver. RUN- - - -do not walk away from any kind of tubular steel header system. All they do for a street machine is increase the underhood temperature, blow out gaskets, and melt spark plug wires!
Jerry


"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Kris Kristofferson

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!

WAG MORE- - - - - -BARK LESS!
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 209
W
'Bolter
Thanks Jerry, I have not gotten to the point of deciding about the steering yet (original vs. aftermarket column; manual vs. power) but agree that exhaust restriction will not be a problem. I am not a fan of tubular header systems for all the reason you mention plus flange warpping problems.


1949/50 3600 Project
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 111
J
'Bolter
I just finished installing a 350 in my 3800. I used a 67-87 chevy truck steering box which mounts on the outside of the frame. It works great, the only thing I may do also is add a front sway bar because sometimes under acceleration you get a little bump steer but other than that it's flawless. I would recommend anyone doing a V8 swap to consider it.

Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 209
W
'Bolter
John, do you have any pictures that show your installation? Is the bump steer related to the drag link being at an angle such that as the spring is deflected the spindle pushs/pulls on the steering wheel?


1949/50 3600 Project
Page 6 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Moderated by  KCMongo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5