Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 49/50 3600 SBC Conversion

I'm late to the game but figured I'd chime in, as I did 25 years ago most of what it looks like you're in the middle of. I put a 350 in my '53 3600, keeping everything else stock (including 4 speed SM420 trans). As I'm sure you've learned, the steering box will need to move about 2" out to clear any kind of conventional exhaust manifolds on a SBC. Also you'll need to cut out part of the firewall to clear the distributor (and also the rear of the rocker arm cover, IIRC). My 350 gave me plenty of power and was fund to drive, but I never was able to get it to cool properly, and so I overheated it regularly and ended up with a pretty massive engine failure (one of the valves snapped off and was actually embedded in the piston).

At that point I decided to go back to the stovebolt 6 that the truck was designed for. I ran a bone stock 216 for several years with zero problems. I found a slightly used 1.5 ton truck 235 (splash oiler) for sale near me for $250. The guy said it only had 5,000 miles on it. I put that engine in and have never looked back! A well-running 235 has plenty of power for this truck, and with 235/75 R16 tires and a 4.11 rear end transplant, I can cruise comfortably between 65-70 on the highway.

You are correct about the modified crossmember is just there for support of the leaf spring mount.
I used the original bolt-on crossmember which supports the torque tube for my transmission tail mount. I had to slide it back on the frame 4 inches, but got lucky as the two rear holes in the frame lined up with the two front holes of the crossmember, so I only had to drill two holes in the frame.
I used a transmission mount designed for my auto transmission.

Tyler, I am surprised to hear that you had cooling problems with the SBC.

I am familiar with the steering interference issue, just have not decided exactly how I plan to resolve it.

Several have advised that engine placement is key to allowing the engine to be installed with firewall clearance for the distributor and rocker covers so I remain hopeful that I can navigate those concerns.

Glad to hear that your 235 is working well.

Well it was my own stupid fault. When I got my truck it was missing the sheet metal filler piece between the bottom grille bar and the radiator, so the air flow through the grille was not all forced into the radiator. After I blew up the 350 I discovered this problem, was able to source a take-off bottom grille pan, and have been running cool ever since with my Stovebolt 6s.

Best of luck with your project! Sounds like your truck is going to be a very sweet ride. :-)

The 50 3600 I bought in 99 had a SBC V8 in it already. Farm/home conversion. Steering gear and column moved outboard to clear exhaust, etc. SM-420 behind it with original everything else. Built for grunt work and not speed or sport. It even had a goose neck hitch plate in the bed… Many times I have wished I still had it.

Good luck with your project.

As noted in my project journal I cut out the original cross member to clear the transmission and got my engine and transmission mounts located and installed.

I am still planning to rebuild the original cross member as a bolt in similar to what 52carl indicated although I think my transmission will require the center section to be moved further back and perhaps not as low. I noticed that the driver's side cross member is cracked when it is rivited to the frame so I will need to weld that in the process.

The steering gear/exhaust interference problem can be solved by running a driver's side exhaust manifold for a 1955-57 265 V8. Ebay or your friendly local swap meet usually has a few available. The outlet flange is all the way forward, which eliminates the steering column interference a rams' horn manifold causes. Unless you're planning to run very high RPM most of the time, there won't be enoug exhaust back pressure to notice with a daily driver. RUN- - - -do not walk away from any kind of tubular steel header system. All they do for a street machine is increase the underhood temperature, blow out gaskets, and melt spark plug wires!
Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I have not gotten to the point of deciding about the steering yet (original vs. aftermarket column; manual vs. power) but agree that exhaust restriction will not be a problem. I am not a fan of tubular header systems for all the reason you mention plus flange warpping problems.

I just finished installing a 350 in my 3800. I used a 67-87 chevy truck steering box which mounts on the outside of the frame. It works great, the only thing I may do also is add a front sway bar because sometimes under acceleration you get a little bump steer but other than that it's flawless. I would recommend anyone doing a V8 swap to consider it.

John, do you have any pictures that show your installation? Is the bump steer related to the drag link being at an angle such that as the spring is deflected the spindle pushs/pulls on the steering wheel?