We are still asking: What did you get done on your Bolt today ????
The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt this weekend?"
After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.
Well as things go I got my feelings hurt... BAD! I had priced trusses awhile back and thought maybe the price wouldn't have changed that much, WRONG. The quote as of yesterday was $5900.00, that was for 28, 3/12 pitch with a span of 28ft (delivered).
I may have a work around. I have a 12" tall I-beam that I could run the length of the shop and stick build the rafters off of that. I realize that the pitch would be less, I could work with a 24" rise as we don't deal with snow loads here. The cost of the lumber to do this with a 24" on center build would be just over $2000.00, or $1300.00 with a 36" on center. Keep in mind that I still need to purchase the roof panels and hardware.
Still need to crunch some more numbers and do a little "Jethro Bodine" ciphering on this.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
3/12 is a pretty shallow pitch on a roof, what are you using for the roofing material (shingles or metal)?
What is the actual size of your 12" beam and is it rated to span the distance carrying the roof? Will there be columns under the beam or is it clear span?
I would try to raise that peak to a minimum 3/12 and better yet 4/12. The greater the slope, the less issues you will have with your roof and you’ll be able to use whatever roofing material you want.
If the beam is rated for the span and load, you can build post on each end to raise that beam as high as you want.
Phil, I had to go back a research the Roofing Code for Ga. I want to use metal roofing panels and the minimum pitch for these is 3/12. I allow need to verify the rating on the steel beam, I'm sure it is more than adequate to support the roof without center posts but I will verify this.
The roof line on our house is a 3/12 pitch, I would like to have the shop roof look close too if not match the house, that is purely for ascetics.
I have also checked on roll up doors, I am required to have a wind rating of 110 MPH. A 10'x10' door door to meet this rating will run me about $1250.00 each plus delivery.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
3/12 with a metal roof would be great! I have metal roof’s on both my house and garage and think it’s the only way to go. Ouch on those roll up doors. I’m sure the metal for the roof won’t be cheap
I know that the 10 x 10 doors are just big enough, going larger would just be too much out of the pockets. As for the metal roof, let's just say I know a guy. I've been told that I can get the sheeting cut to length for under $3.00 a linear ft.
I had an interesting discussion with a friend who is a Mortgage lender, he thinks that now with the interest rates going up again that the price of materials will come down drastically. I suppose we'll need to wait and see as I will still need to sheet the sides.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Made a lot of progress today. I enlisted some help and got two walls framed and set in place. So far it's been a lot of labor and plenty of head scratching.
Last edited by TUTS 59; Sun May 15 2022 01:09 AM.
Craig
Come, Bleed or Blister something has got to give!!! 59' Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
I’m envious of the size of your shop but I’m not envious of the labor involved. Three very hard working gents built mine in 13hrs. No kidding. https://youtu.be/5GP9BFnDokw
Since your waiting on sheathing, there will be nothing preventing the walls from racking. Level your studs than nail a couple diagonals at a 45° angle to your studs. Make sure you start at a side and finish on the top or bottom plate to create a triangle. Apply them to the inside so you can sheath without removing them. Once sheathed, they can be removed