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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 866
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Dusty53 Offline OP
'Bolter
Needing advice on my bed refinish project. I'm replacing the front panel and rear cross sill, angle strips, bed strips and bed wood. The welding of the rear sill to the bedsides creates a problem with refinishing. I suppose I could shoot the bed sides, front panel, and rear sill with epoxy primer, assemble the parts and then sand off the primer where the rear sill gets welded to the bedsides , weld it up and apply epoxy primer to those areas that were sanded/ welded. Then complete the prep and final finish coat. What do the experienced bolters suggest?

Last edited by Dusty53; Wed Apr 27 2022 02:52 PM.

Ron
1954 Chevy 3604 - A work in progress...
Veteran, USMC

" You can't keep dancing with the Devil and wonder why you're still in Hell ! "

"Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you're stupid and make bad decisions"
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,464
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
That's the way I plan on doing my bed. I'll likely shoot color on the bed metal parts supported on sawhorses once assembled (and the rear cross sill welded in.


Kevin
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 866
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Dusty53 Offline OP
'Bolter
Kevin , thanks for the input. By the time I'd finished writing the post I'd convinced myself to do the same but wanted to get some advice. I noticed that the bolts on the bed front panel were the ocean green paint color under that red paint some previous owner had painted. I also noticed ocean green paint all along the bottom of the front cross sill which tells me that the bed was assembled when painted at the factory. There was even green paint under the bed to frame bolt large washers and remnants of the green paint on some of the bed boards. When I got the truck there was a sheet of steel welded in the bed on top of the bed boards. This is almost too much fun. Anyway, you have fun up there in Alaska!


Ron
1954 Chevy 3604 - A work in progress...
Veteran, USMC

" You can't keep dancing with the Devil and wonder why you're still in Hell ! "

"Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you're stupid and make bad decisions"
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 307
F
'Bolter
Yep same here.

I am priming and painting, assembling, welding, and then painting again after weld area prep.

I think painting is important to stop moisture from sitting between panels. From what i can tell GM assembled, primed and painted leaving the metal between no protection.


1966 C-10 Step Side. 283, 4spd, 3.73 gear. 60K miles prior to restoration. 507 Paint Code. Currently in 10,000 pieces.
Transmission is done! Rear Suspension is done! Wheels are done! Bed bodywork is done! Soon to order a 383 crate.



Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 866
D
Dusty53 Offline OP
'Bolter
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller
Yep same here.

I am priming and painting, assembling, welding, and then painting again after weld area prep.

I think painting is important to stop moisture from sitting between panels. From what i can tell GM assembled, primed and painted leaving the metal between no protection.

That's a recipe for rust! I'll pay close attention to what I see when I disassemble the rest of the bed.


Ron
1954 Chevy 3604 - A work in progress...
Veteran, USMC

" You can't keep dancing with the Devil and wonder why you're still in Hell ! "

"Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you're stupid and make bad decisions"
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 224
5
'Bolter
Here is another option if you are concerned with rust around the weld. Mine is a fleetside but the assembly is similar. I did not want to weld the rear sill to the bedsides on my fleetside so used this procedure. Assemble the complete bed sheet metal and tighten all fasteners exactly how I wanted it. Then, removed the rear sill bolts one at a time and drilled them out to a close fit 3/8 instead of the original 5/16 and tighten a 3/8 bolt in the same hole. Do each bolt one at a time making sure the bedside does not move relative to the rear sill. By doing this I was able to disassemble the bed, paint, and reassemble in the exact same position without any welding. I have driven the truck thousands of miles over the years and the bed sides are still lined up. Your mileage may vary.

Mark

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 866
D
Dusty53 Offline OP
'Bolter
Originally Posted by 59 fleet
Here is another option if you are concerned with rust around the weld. Mine is a fleetside but the assembly is similar. I did not want to weld the rear sill to the bedsides on my fleetside so used this procedure. Assemble the complete bed sheet metal and tighten all fasteners exactly how I wanted it. Then, removed the rear sill bolts one at a time and drilled them out to a close fit 3/8 instead of the original 5/16 and tighten a 3/8 bolt in the same hole. Do each bolt one at a time making sure the bedside does not move relative to the rear sill. By doing this I was able to disassemble the bed, paint, and reassemble in the exact same position without any welding. I have driven the truck thousands of miles over the years and the bed sides are still lined up. Your mileage may vary.

Mark
Thanks Mark!


Ron
1954 Chevy 3604 - A work in progress...
Veteran, USMC

" You can't keep dancing with the Devil and wonder why you're still in Hell ! "

"Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you're stupid and make bad decisions"

Moderated by  HandyAndy, klhansen 

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