Floor is in! I used non-hardening silicone sealant side and bottom. Pretty solid . I want to move forward slightly with the rest of the floor ,the new one lacks. The panels that go part way up the firewall. Can I rivet those in or ...? They match up perfect to what is there.
far as I can tell every thing lines up. The floor has to sit 3/16ths of an inch lower because of its made for a cab truck. The cross sill body to frame mount will be weak because of the gauge of metal used on the new. I am asking can I lay the upper floor repair panels over the new floor ? I plan to use short carriage bolts. About 9 per panel. 3M panel adhesive where they overlap. If anything I`ll gain some floor height heading up the firewall.
So I went ahead and planned to get the body back on the frame before moving with any more sheet metal work. All the mounts to frame are ready. 2 back deck , 4 at the bed.2 under the seat and 2 right there at your feet. I used POR 15(4 cts) on the wood and surrounding metal. Turned out great with the wood grain still showing thru the battle scars. Real hard finish to it. Had to cut some pieces to make up for the distance on the fleetside shortbed skid strips.
We are VERY exacting on panel replacement and gaps since a botched job costs us serious money where the hobbyist is out sweat and labor. On total floor replacement we fit the doors, with no hinges, into the body and shim till they fit the opening. The doors are then welded to the body with 4-6 good tacks on the front edge and rear edge. Bracing installed at this point so doors can be removed and floor/rockers/pillars/cross members can be welded in. Pictured is a 37 Chevy Business Coupe that the entire floor AND firewall was replaced (firewall to accommodate a big block engine).
Bracing installed but not in way of door fitting hole:
